New reefer 220 build.
- Thread starter Adam
- Start date
Those stands are probably capable of handling 5x what you plan to put on them lol.
Im going to be building a stand here soon for my 180. More than likely it will be constructed of 3/4" plywood, and some 1x material for the corners, trim, and door areas. Constructed properly, this is more than strong enough. You guys are building stands that are capable of supporting a house lol
Im going to be building a stand here soon for my 180. More than likely it will be constructed of 3/4" plywood, and some 1x material for the corners, trim, and door areas. Constructed properly, this is more than strong enough. You guys are building stands that are capable of supporting a house lol
Well given this is an in-wall build I needed studs to attach the drywall to and with the completely open back end for sump access I don't mind that it's over built. With the mixing station there's 1000lbs above my shoulder level and the fish room doesn't have a lot of space in it. If either came down anyone standing there doesn't have much of a chance not getting injured or worse. Hell, the mixing station is even anchored to the concrete wall on 2 sides. 
A lot of the screws we sell are used in structural applications and I'm used to looking at a minimum of a double safety factor, it's usually 3 times or more. If i was going to put this size tank against a wall free standing I'd probably build the stand with plywood and 2x4's in the corners.
A lot of the screws we sell are used in structural applications and I'm used to looking at a minimum of a double safety factor, it's usually 3 times or more. If i was going to put this size tank against a wall free standing I'd probably build the stand with plywood and 2x4's in the corners.
- Messages
- 5,121
- Reaction score
- 7
Plywood is typically all I use to build the structural portion of my stands. properly done nothing is needed for the corners either. In Adam's case here with it being built in and limited sources of saws to size the plywood dimensional lumber was just as easy and offers him a little more access under the tank.
Looks great I still envy that water mixing station lol
Yeah, all I had was a circular saw and a rented miter saw. All the plywood rips were done at Home Depot. Going in tonight to get another sheet and have them rip all the cuts I need. Then I just need to glue and screw lol
I got the tank down yesterday and hope to have it back on the stand by Friday night.
In planning everything out I wanted to make water handling as easy as possible. I could help you come up with something Mark. The biggest expense in mine was the 2 new brutes. You can't get the 55'ers at HD or Lowes anymore. It was like $160 for both with lids at Uline. I don't know how much room you have but there are a variety of ways to size it out. Even if it's 2 containers stacked over one another. You can get some smaller drums
Ok, the stand has been addressed and should be back in place today with the tank back on it. I'm going to level it and fill the tank half way and check the level again over the next few days. Then I'll fill it to just underneath the overflow and make sure its level again for another couple days. If all is good I'll anchor it to the wall.
Now on to the sump. I just finished re-siliconing it and I'm planning the layout. It's a 48x18" 90 gallon. I'm planning a small compartment for the overflows to drain into, about 5" long. This will allow me to put in 4" socks if I decide too and give me I nice place to collect detritus. On the other end I'm planning 9-10" for the pump compartment. The question I have is how big should I make the skimmer compartment to allow for a future upgrade, is 12" enough or should it be longer? (I see I'm leaving myself open here for TWSS jokes ) The remaining space will be for the fuge.
Now on to the sump. I just finished re-siliconing it and I'm planning the layout. It's a 48x18" 90 gallon. I'm planning a small compartment for the overflows to drain into, about 5" long. This will allow me to put in 4" socks if I decide too and give me I nice place to collect detritus. On the other end I'm planning 9-10" for the pump compartment. The question I have is how big should I make the skimmer compartment to allow for a future upgrade, is 12" enough or should it be longer? (I see I'm leaving myself open here for TWSS jokes
) The remaining space will be for the fuge.
If all goes well I'll be water testing the system tomorrow. I'm done for the day.
alt="" />
Well the plumbing is done and water testing is underway. So far so good. The pump is running full speed and with head loss and a 3/4" outlet I fell like it should be pushing 2000-2200gph. It doesn't even seem like I'm even getting close to the max capacity of the overflow. Feels good to have this finished. Going to let it run over night and if all's good in the morning I'll drain it and start the rock scape.
alt="" />
- Messages
- 5,121
- Reaction score
- 7
Good Deal!!! I like those pipe stand offs. Neat job.
- Messages
- 1,127
- Reaction score
- 20
I gotta admit.... the plumping looks good in the pics. I really like the pipe hangers.
Thanks guys! The stand offs are 1-1/2" hot dip galvanized hanger clamps & ceiling flanges from Lowe's and 3/8" stainless threaded rod from HD. They really secure the pipe well, no movement at all.
I took the 3/4" adapter off the end of the 1-1/4" return line and let the pump run with no restrictions. The overflow handled it with a little tweak to the siphon valve. I'm really digging this overflow from Exotic Marine Systems.
I think I'm going to change the outlet position of the open channel pipe to the 1st chamber of the sump. Both outputs put out a decent amount of bubbles on startup. That really limits the placement of the probes for the Apex.
I took the 3/4" adapter off the end of the 1-1/4" return line and let the pump run with no restrictions. The overflow handled it with a little tweak to the siphon valve. I'm really digging this overflow from Exotic Marine Systems.
I think I'm going to change the outlet position of the open channel pipe to the 1st chamber of the sump. Both outputs put out a decent amount of bubbles on startup. That really limits the placement of the probes for the Apex.
Here's a shot of the over flow with the pump running full speed. I over estimated the flow though. With the piping I have this is more like 1600gph.
alt="" />
should be good enough for any corals.
On to the rock work now. 😁
lol
also, I would drill some holes in the rock. these can be the future sites of new coral frags.
