Chapter 2: 50g Lowboy LPS
- Thread starter Rainblood
- Start date
What's the square tube in the bottom right corner?
its a nano skimmer
Holy crap this plastic cutter is the most worthless piece of sh!t.
Is there any reason I cannot run this piece of acrylic through a table saw? Will it explode into a million fragments?
Is there any reason I cannot run this piece of acrylic through a table saw? Will it explode into a million fragments?
You can use a table saw. If you have a blade with more teeth on it thr cut will be cleaner. Lower the blade and go slow.
Out of wood. And daylight.
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What is the material for doors and facing? Before you say wood, what type?
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god dang rllly wish i got this tank lol
I would imagine that cabinet and furniture makers curse a lot. I mean a lot.
Also don’t be fooled - none of the lines match up and it looks 1000% better in the photo than it does in real life.
The wood was 3/4” plywood I had sitting in the garage for about a year. It’s the really nice 4x8 one that’s like $50. Some dope at Home Depot messed up cutting it and put it in the clearance bin right as I was walking by. I forget how much I paid but it was probably like $10. Actually it was probably sitting in my garage for over 2 years.
The doors I stole off a old entertainment center in the garage. It’s some type of laminate casing around what I assume is MDF. I thought about making a door but couldn’t figure out how to make a decent looking one so it was easier just to take one off the cabinet.
Also don’t be fooled - none of the lines match up and it looks 1000% better in the photo than it does in real life.
The wood was 3/4” plywood I had sitting in the garage for about a year. It’s the really nice 4x8 one that’s like $50. Some dope at Home Depot messed up cutting it and put it in the clearance bin right as I was walking by. I forget how much I paid but it was probably like $10. Actually it was probably sitting in my garage for over 2 years.
The doors I stole off a old entertainment center in the garage. It’s some type of laminate casing around what I assume is MDF. I thought about making a door but couldn’t figure out how to make a decent looking one so it was easier just to take one off the cabinet.
A grinder and paint will make a carpenter what he ain't
I have a long way to go before water.
I really think I’m going to break that piece of acrylic when I cut it but we’ll see how it holds up. Fingers crossed
I really think I’m going to break that piece of acrylic when I cut it but we’ll see how it holds up. Fingers crossed
I will be heading down that way next weekend it you will be ready for the solvent.
Impressive, you did a great job capturing most of my design detail!
The height of this wall is relevant the top slits, I also add more slits mid way down this wall to promote a more diverse induction of tank water while maintaining a surface skimming action. What is relevant about this wall is that its height sets the tank water level. on my 60 & 80 gal tanks (same 2'X 4' footprint as yours) the 1st baffle height is 1 1/8" shorter than the false wall making the water level 5/8" lower that the top of the false wall. This puts the water level high enough to be hidden by the black aquarium trim/frame.
The drawing looks fine for the baffles, but I would make the prefilter area deeper, at least 3" and mount the spillover wall 1/2" lower then the 1st baffle, this will allow the pre filter to clog and spill over letting you know its time to change it out. This is also a good space to put a bag or carbon or other stuff. Also the water lens after he 1st baffle will fluctuate with out affecting the level of the tank, this is where I put my ATO sensor (either the chamber with the egg crate or the chamber with the return pump).
I also have plenty of weldon products to glue acrylic and happy to share some but looks like I'm a ways away for you.
PS, I wouldn't worry about painting the bottom of the tank, even bare bottom you won't see through it unless you look top down (until Coraline covers it...)
The height of this wall is relevant the top slits, I also add more slits mid way down this wall to promote a more diverse induction of tank water while maintaining a surface skimming action. What is relevant about this wall is that its height sets the tank water level. on my 60 & 80 gal tanks (same 2'X 4' footprint as yours) the 1st baffle height is 1 1/8" shorter than the false wall making the water level 5/8" lower that the top of the false wall. This puts the water level high enough to be hidden by the black aquarium trim/frame.
does this diagram look right as far as the levels of the baffles?
The drawing looks fine for the baffles, but I would make the prefilter area deeper, at least 3" and mount the spillover wall 1/2" lower then the 1st baffle, this will allow the pre filter to clog and spill over letting you know its time to change it out. This is also a good space to put a bag or carbon or other stuff. Also the water lens after he 1st baffle will fluctuate with out affecting the level of the tank, this is where I put my ATO sensor (either the chamber with the egg crate or the chamber with the return pump).
I also have plenty of weldon products to glue acrylic and happy to share some but looks like I'm a ways away for you.
PS, I wouldn't worry about painting the bottom of the tank, even bare bottom you won't see through it unless you look top down (until Coraline covers it...)
And now we paint. Uggg.
Next step....AIO
That stand looks really nice! Do you mind me asking how much it costed you to build the stand?
$117
It would've been under $100, but my loving wife picked some pretty pricey paint.
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What type of paint? semi-gloss?
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