Cook’s Waterbox Cube 20

Cook

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This is an experiment to see if my zoas do better in an all in one versus a mixed system SPS frag tank. Some zoas thrive while others slowly fade away and it’s usually the expensive ones of course. Also, I want to play around with an idea of suspending zoanthids on their own grow out rocks similar to the approach I have taken for my SPS in my frag tank and I don't have room to do that in my current tanks.

I bought this bundle from someone leaving the hobby and it came with everything ready to run, with most items only a couple of months old. I've been on the fence about what to do with it, but once I found a new in the box white Waterbox stand on Craigslist for less than half retail, it was time to set it up. I had gotten a pedestal stand for free from @thrasher, but it did not have any storage, which was a problem for me because I needed the ATO container and other supplies to be contained within the stand. I have so much reefing stuff, it's an illness at this point.

This is what I started with:
Waterbox Cube 20
Waterbox Cube 20 stand (Facebook deal)
AI Nero 3
JBJ Nano ATO
Sicce 0.5 pump with stock return
AI Prime 16HD (I got two with this package, using one)
Finnex 50 Watt heater
5 gallon bucket of live rock
Fluval protein skimmer - this doesn’t fit the compartment (I will explore modifying later)
Frogspawn and hammer corals, assorted zoanthids
1 pair of ocellaris clowns

This is what I have changed so far:
Upgrade to Sicce 1.0 pump (250gph) with custom 3D printed adapter to allow 1/2” VCA Random Flow Nozzle.
3D printed media cup to replace WB Filter sock. - I clean 4" socks regularly, but this sock is so small - no thanks.
Eheim Jager 100W heater - from my spare parts bin

Ordered:
Kraken Reef custom acrylic lid
Kraken Reef 3D printed screen for existing Weir - keeps small creatures from getting pulled into the overflow
Kraken Reef - Feeding cup - this fits into the acrylic lid and from what I read is the perfect spot for using an automatic feeder without having the pellets get pulled straight into the overflow

I already had the VCA flow nozzle from my old RS 170 build and it works better on this system knowing the flow requirements and sticking to one nozzle versus 2. I had a 0.5 Sicce pump on my frag tank media reactor burn out a week after I purchased this, so I used the 0.5 pump for that. The Sicce 1.0 has same pump flow rate as the stock Waterbox pump, just quieter and more consistent.

More than likely, I will sell these small clowns once I have other fish ready from QT and either move my black ocellaris clownfish over and find him a friend or sell him as well and move to a clown free setup with an assortment of nano reef fish.

I may not worry about a protein skimmer as from what I have read, I can achieve the same thing with water changes. If I can 3D print a fix though I will consider it a challenge. Part of the point of this tank is to allow elevated Nitrate and phosphate levels that zoas prefer, but SPS do not. Also, I do not plan to dose, but if I find I have to, I'll go with an all in one product. I only have one dosing pump left over in my spare parts bin.
 
Here is the 3D printed part (the one in the middle). VCA sells an adapter for the loc line, but since I already had the nozzle, I preferred to make my own.
 

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I was looking for a cheap option for an ATO container and I found this at Walmart for about $8. It should hold about 2 gallons. The JBJ nano pump fits very well and all I needed to do was drill 2 holes in the top.

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Looks great, I just setup the same tank. Let me know what you think about the custom lid when it arrives, I need to order one myself.
 
Ha! You know what else I said I didn't want to do? Quarantine more fish, but I'm doing that too. I have a Carpenter's wrasse in this batch to add to my frag tank. For the 20 I have a springer damsel, purple dottyback, flame hawkfish, and a blenny lawnmower. I'm going to sell the clown pair currently in the 20 when these are just about ready. They are only 48 hours into quarantine so far, so a ways to go yet.
 
So, allow me to explain how I very carefully setup this tank. I filled it up with fresh saltwater, then I dumped in a bottle of Bio Spira and waited 24 hours. Next, I pulled about 10 marine pure spheres out of my frag tank (aged for over a year) and put that in the back in one of the zippered mesh bags I also threw in a sponge that was aged the same way. Then I placed a bunch of coral and a couple of pieces of live rock in the tank and moved the two clowns in. Not surprisingly, nitrates and phosphates were bottomed out and dinos started to appear after two weeks, which is like a repeat of my old RS 170 thread. So, I did an 8 gallon water change and swapped 8 gallons of water out of my frag tank that already has reasonable levels of nitrates and phosphates. The dinos disappeared within a couple of days. I'm going to water change out of my frag tank as needed to keep the nitrates and phosphates up.

Back to the fish - I had a $60 credit from Saltwaterfish.com that was two years old, so when they did their 20% off sale, I went ahead and ordered what I wanted instead of trying to source locally. I had a McKosker's flasher wrasse that I ordered also, but he died this morning, so I'll have to see if I can get another credit.
 
That lid is nice. I just looked into them too bad the largest they make is 24x24
 
So, I was cleaning the tank today to prepare for my next update and I may come to regret adding a small wrasse to this cube. I startled the wrasse who then jumped out of the water and landed in the pump section of the back chamber. I'll consider that a lucky event since the alternative was the floor. I had to kill the pump and remove everything to get him out. Hopefully, that doesn't happen again, but it's a good reminder of why I waited until I had my lid to put him in.
 
Instead of experimenting with zoas, this is more of a holding tank for frags. I have to trim up some zoas this weekend and get all the calcium heavy demand out of this tank. It’s hard to control the alkalinity. The new fish are getting to the point of tolerating each other. The orchid dottyback is the boss of the tank, though each seem to have their moments.
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The wrasse definitely takes some getting used to, he's really skittish. He jumped when I was using my flipper magnet on the other side of the tank yesterday. The lid was on, so he was fine. I'm contemplating moving to a 110 gallon aquaculture tank and replacing both this tank and the 40 gallon since right after I started this tank up, my nitrates and phosphates jumped up on the 40 gallon. I have to say though that zoas are growing very well in this tank, my AOI frags from about 6 weeks ago have all added a significant number of polyps, enough that I may have to frag each of them again before I sell them to keep them from being too expensive per frag. I think some zoas may prefer an Alkalinity around 7, even though I'm aiming for 8 on this tank, it's spending more time in the 7 -7.5 range than 8 due to consumption and manual adds to correct it.
 
The wrasse definitely takes some getting used to, he's really skittish. He jumped when I was using my flipper magnet on the other side of the tank yesterday. The lid was on, so he was fine. I'm contemplating moving to a 110 gallon aquaculture tank and replacing both this tank and the 40 gallon since right after I started this tank up, my nitrates and phosphates jumped up on the 40 gallon. I have to say though that zoas are growing very well in this tank, my AOI frags from about 6 weeks ago have all added a significant number of polyps, enough that I may have to frag each of them again before I sell them to keep them from being too expensive per frag. I think some zoas may prefer an Alkalinity around 7, even though I'm aiming for 8 on this tank, it's spending more time in the 7 -7.5 range than 8 due to consumption and manual adds to correct it.
Let me know when you frag some AOI’s. Growth is always a good thing.
 
The wrasse has more than one problem, like all three of his tank mates. I caught the orchid dottyback going after him tonight, but he's been picked on by the flame hawk and the damsel at differing points. I have placed him in a mesh breeder cage to allow him to heal, once that's done I will move him to my frag tank, but not before I make a screen top for it. I soaked some food in Selcon and garlic guard and he's eating well at least. I may have to rehome the dottyback which is a shame, I paid extra to get a captive bred one.
 
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