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#241 |
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 517 City: dacula State: GA Occupation: Public accounting for affordable housing and other tax credit investments Other Interests: Golf, wood working, guitars, gardening, hydroponics
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That's pretty much the math I used. But my setup is a little different (3 strings of 12 3w leds). I started with 2.28A and diveded by 3 to get 760ma which is close to perfect and I could adjust it down a bit...however, the multimeter says I'm getting something in the high 600's. I thought it was odd.. so i tested my other drivers and all specs were comparable.
Anyways, thanks for the info. Have you checked your current with a multimeter? I'm curious if you have similar results. |
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#242 | ||
Join Date: Feb 2010
Age: 32
Posts: 518 City: Jasper State: GA Occupation: I could tell you, but, well, you know the rest... Other Interests: Computers/Outdoors
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The last time I tried to do math for wiring up LEDs, I ended up banging my head against my kitchen counter repeatedly before I figured out how to wire up some DIY LED tail lights for my motorcycle before you could purchase them commercially.
Now that I'm contemplating a LED build, I'm doing it again (banging my head on the counter). So far, here's what I've come up with: Using a Mean Well HLG-185-24A as the driver, I could wire-up a parallel series of 12 sets of 7 LEDs each, assuming a 3.3 foward voltage and a forward current of 700mA with 1.5 ohm resistors to cap it. My problems: 1. I know not all of the LEDs will be driven 700mA 2. Not all of my LEDs will have the same forward voltage/current What I'm trying to do: Build a single controllable enclosure, using only two AC plugs, that generously light a 48"x24"x24" tank with various, but useful, colors. Somebody check my math before I stroke out from looking at this stuff. |
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