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Old 03-03-2012, 7:34 PM   #201
Chris S Chris S is offline
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It has to be a saturated solution. Boil the water and add alum until you can't get any more to dissolve. Also heat is the key. I use a glass bowl and put it on a heat plate. The hotter you can keep it the faster it works.

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Old 03-03-2012, 7:44 PM   #202
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Can I put a Pyrex bowl on a hot plate?

I have a gas stove, and can boil the alum solution there...

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Old 03-03-2012, 8:07 PM   #203
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only some of the older pyrex is hotplate/cooktop safe. to be safe find a pot the pyrex will fit in and float the pyrex inside the pot with water. it will transfer the heat and protect the pyrex. i've done some larger pieces this way and used a few bamboo skewers on the bottom of the pot to protect the bowl from resting on the bottom.

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Old 03-03-2012, 8:27 PM   #204
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Gotcha - a double boiler configuration.

I will try this again later, Kroger was out of alum...

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Old 03-04-2012, 2:12 AM   #205
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You can salvage those heatsinks. Go to the grocery store and look in the area where they keep pickling supplies. Look for pickling alum, it should come in a bag like the pickling lime we use. Using hot water mix a really strong solution of the alum. Submerge the heatsink and walk away. In 12 to 24 hours the tap should disappear without hurting the aluminum. I suggest using a plastic or glass container and if you can keep the solution warm the reaction happens faster. I found this info on the web years ago when I was more into metalworking. It saved a few aluminum and brass parts.

and i feel your pain. I just finished tapping over 200 4-40 holes.
What's the underlying chemical reaction?
It can't be oxidation as aluminum oxidizes much quicker than a steel tap...

Just curious...

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Old 03-04-2012, 2:18 AM   #206
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What's the underlying chemical reaction?

It can't be oxidation as aluminum oxidizes much quicker than a steel tap...



Just curious...
Rapid rusting of the steel tap, supposed to turn it into sludge.

Supposed to work on a ferrous item in a non-ferrous material.

E.g., steel tap in aluminum, iron bolt in bronze, etc..

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Old 03-04-2012, 2:24 AM   #207
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Rapid rusting of the steel tap, supposed to turn it into sludge.

Supposed to work on a ferrous item in a non-ferrous material.

E.g., steel tap in aluminum, iron bolt in bronze, etc..
Rusting is oxidation, and aluminum oxidizes MUCH quicker than steel.

In fact, in order to restore threads on steel bolts - you put hot salt water and aluminum flakes in a container.
The aluminum oxidizes, the rust reduces back to steel.
Known as a redox reaction to chemists - so while the rusting is the outcome, it can't be oxidation in this case...

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Old 03-04-2012, 1:48 PM   #208
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I tried it, but I don't think I got the amount of alum powder right...

I used about half a tin - a few tablespoons, and left it overnight...

Tried to get some more, but Kroger was out.

I have 2 heatsinks with broken taps in them, so ill try it again later.


I already bought a replacement heatsink, but if I can reuse these 2 for other LEDs that would be great.

I hope you are able to get the broken tap piece's out. I don't know if you are tapping dry or with some type of lubricating fluid but I always use a product called tap magic and it works wonders and is cheap. Just got through tapping a bunch of 4-40 and 6-32 holes in 1/4" aluminium plate and no taps broken using this stuff.

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Old 03-04-2012, 2:00 PM   #209
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I hope you are able to get the broken tap piece's out. I don't know if you are tapping dry or with some type of lubricating fluid but I always use a product called tap magic and it works wonders and is cheap. Just got through tapping a bunch of 4-40 and 6-32 holes in 1/4" aluminium plate and no taps broken using this stuff.
The broken taps aren't that important right now, since I don't need to remove them to complete my project.


There is this tap removal tool, I might consider it:

Amazon.com: Walton 10063 #6, 3 Flute Tap Extractor With Square Shank: Industrial & Scientific Amazon.com: Walton 10063 #6, 3 Flute Tap Extractor With Square Shank: Industrial & Scientific




I was using oil to cut the threads, it's just that it was too easy to wrench the tap at an off angle and snap it.

Since I got my tapping jig, it's made it much easier to keep the taps straight - and they cut with ease, without any sideways force that could snap them.

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Old 03-04-2012, 6:55 PM   #210
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The alum forms a solution that reacts with ferrous metals causing them to oxidize. You can actually see bubbles coming off the tap during the process. Because it only reacts with ferrous metal the aluminum is untouched.

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Old 03-17-2012, 11:14 AM   #211
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Took the heatsinks, and tapped-out the previous fan mounting holes for 6-32 threads, and mounted one of the 92mm fans.

The nice thing about these fans is that the wires are long enough so that the wires can reach to the center of the unit, where all the power connections will be made.

I have a 6-to-1 fan power distribution board that I'll use to power all 6 fans.


Here's one of the heatsink fans, with the new top cover that I picked up from MRC last week.

As I expected from the 3D model, the fans have almost exactly 1/8" of vertical clearance between the fan and the top cover - a pretty good fit!


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Old 03-18-2012, 1:38 PM   #212
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Fan Test

I wired up the 6 fans to a fan power distribution board, and plugged in a 12V 2.0A DC power brick.

The fans are rated for full speed at 500mA, so the 2.0A power supply under-powers them a bit but they're pushing plenty of air!


With the top off, the fans are pretty quiet, and not much louder with the top on.

With the top on, you can feel the air flowing out the side vents at a pretty good rate.


These fans ought to keep everything well cooled...

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Old 03-18-2012, 2:56 PM   #213
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This thread is doing much for my need of instant gratification... And it's driving me crazy.

BUT...

I truly have enjoyed following and I've learned some things along the way. Thanks for sharing everything with us.

Now, if you could just wrap things up!
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Old 03-18-2012, 3:00 PM   #214
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This thread is doing much for my need of instant gratification... And it's driving me crazy.

BUT...

I truly have enjoyed following and I've learned some things along the way. Thanks for sharing everything with us.

Now, if you could just wrap things up!
Oh, no kidding.. I'm almost done with my lights, and the tank is nowhere near being ready for it..

Edit: Wiring up the 10,000K LEDs.

The wires are soldered to the connection tabs on the inside of the plastic frame.

The tabs on the top and bottom could also be used, but I'm going to cut those off.


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Old 03-19-2012, 9:32 PM   #215
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Considering adding 5 x 5W UV LEDs in between the 6 x 50W LEDs.




Thinking about using 120 degree optics, with the black plastic lens holders sticking out of 7/8" holes in the bottom of the unit.

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Old 03-19-2012, 9:50 PM   #216
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I like!
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Old 03-19-2012, 9:58 PM   #217
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Looks good. Why the UV? Any new news on a spectral plot?

Edit

Just saw your other thread. Will look at it now.

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Old 03-19-2012, 10:12 PM   #218
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Yeah, the 10,000K and 20,000K 50W LEDs have good coverage in most of the spectrum, but drop off in the 400-410nm UV range.

Looking at eBay, 5W UV 400-405nm star LEDs go for about $16 each.

At 25 Watts of UV, that's about 8% of the other 300W so I figure that's about right.


Plus the space in between the existing heatsinks is just right for a 75x75x10mm heatsink, good for up to a 10W LED. I may also consider using 10 x 3W UV instead.

There's plenty of airflow, no additional fans required.

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Old 03-19-2012, 10:46 PM   #219
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Quote:
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Oh, no kidding.. I'm almost done with my lights, and the tank is nowhere near being ready for it..

Edit: Wiring up the 10,000K LEDs.

The wires are soldered to the connection tabs on the inside of the plastic frame.

The tabs on the top and bottom could also be used, but I'm going to cut those off.

My 150 will be going up this week you could always pass this LED setup to me. I'm sure my tank would be more than happy to give them a good test drive.

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Old 03-20-2012, 2:21 AM   #220
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My 150 will be going up this week you could always pass this LED setup to me. I'm sure my tank would be more than happy to give them a good test drive.
Woof, you're a long ways off, but I'll think about it... Could let you borrow it for a week or two...

Or, I could go with Plan B, run an extension cord out to my curb and blind passers by.. In the daytime.

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