Ron's 90gal Reef Build

[Rbredding]

Here are my intentions: (I thought I already posted this, but couldn't find it)

I'd like to start (or is it develop) a mixed reef tank that is relatively easy to keep clean (i've got a touch of OCD) and here's what I'm starting with:

*60X18X20 glass tank with overflow boxes in the corners (Durso type standpipes, return lines with lockline)
*AMiracle ProLine 2000 trickle filter that has been Frankenstein'd that I'm probably going to use later as a frag tank
*30SF of 3/16" acrylic that will become my sump with refugium (magically?)
*Fluval 404 canister filter
*Aquanetics UV sterilizer (needs a new lamp - will replace starter also)
*Several powerheads for circulation in the tank
*Berlin Classic Skimmer with pump
*Blue Line 40HD-X external pump (when I first plugged it in it was frozen)
*Canopy for the unit contains 2 MH lamps and 4 T12 HO fluorescents with actenic bulbs and 3 LED moon lights.. (I'll be modifying the height of the canopy skirt to get the MH's up off the water more)
*Aquanetics Chiller 1/5HP inline with controller
*Base cabinet to hide all this stuff...

-newly acquired KNOP C Ca reactor and 6 stage RO/DI (by the way, Nice to meet you Loren and Jon)

I got all this stuff on trade from a buddy at work, it was used (from a guy that owned a LFS) and for the most part it all runs well and I was able to clean it up (I'd never torn apart a magnetic water pump before, but it too, after a cleaning is running properly)..


In the end: I want a setup that's relatively low maintenance, easy to wipe down and keep clean, and efficient..

Future purchases will be:
Regulator and Tank for the Ca Reactor
Controller to automate as much of the process as possible for a budget


__________________________________________________ ____________

Today was the first day in weeks that I was able to work on the stand a little. All the hardware was corroded and rusted and the particular hinge took me about a week of searching to find (I didn't know what the name was for that type of hinge and it was impossible to describe to someone - see below) MRS Rbredding wanted the knobs to match the rest of the furniture in the office, and I'm happy with the hinge color, since you can see them, I like that they are darker to blend in better

I got the old hardware off, had a bit of mortising to do in order to get the new hinges to fit, but everything came together nicely. Here are the pics, pretty self explanatory..

I also got the cherry plywood ripped to the correct width so I could start planning the canopy raise... (I'll post some pictures tomorrow of the "before" shots

[blu_devl_06]

This is gonna be a nice build!!

[LorenK]

Nice Ron. I've got a regulator when you are in the area.

[Rbredding]

Originally Posted by LorenK

Nice Ron. I've got a regulator when you are in the area.

HAHA

guess I should have asked you about it earlier... PM or email me the info when you've got the time

[Rbredding]

Here are a couple shots of what I have to work with that were sent to me before I traded for the tank..(the canopy is upside down on the stand) I've already stripped all the lighting out of the canopy and tested everything.. the Actinics are wired in series and I think i've got a bulb out because they will flash but won't fire... the ballast is a icecap 660 and it's in very good shape. I'm going to pick up 4 new bulbs on the way home tonight and see if I can get them going..


The main reason for raising the skirt is to get the MH lamps higher off the water (right now they are about 4" off the water - I'd like them between 6"-8")

I'm also trying to figure out a canopy design that will enable me to access the canopy AND have the tank lit with lights.. right now, when you pick up the top lid, you're blinded by the lights and the tank is dark..

I'm thinking about spinning it around and modifying everything so that the front 4" of the canopy will flip up like a box top..
we'll see... (any suggestions of designs you've seen work?)

[jonboyb]

That looks to be a very nice stand. Should turn out well (but most OCD projects usually do).

That's a really thin canopy too for MH. IF you could raise the height enough to give you some raised panel flip up doors that might give you enough flexibility to do feeding and minor maintenance.

Equally nice to meet you. If you ever need help or extra set of hands feel free to call.

[LegalReefer]

I really like your stand. I was going to stain mine, but Im too lazy to strip the paint off.

[Rbredding]

I setup the RO/DI station in the laundry room this morning.. I was disappointed to find out that HD didn't carry compression fittings (only the pushlock type) I'm sure it'll be fine, I had to Y off the cold water washing machine valve and then reduce to 3/8" so I could use the valve that came with the "sink adapter"..

first time there was a leak that wouldn't stop no matter how much I torqued it, I disassembled it and removed/replaced the teflon tape... no leak now..

MAN does it just trickle out... seemed to take about 40 mins to get 1.5 gal...

maybe I'll just buy my water for the initial setup from a fish store...

Now I'm trying to decide.. Canopy or Sump.... which one is next (maybe a trip to the pool)

[Rbredding]

YAY ME...
I got to start on the canopy today, first order was deconstructing the original (which was glued and screwed together) I'm going to keep the top pretty much as is, only I'm gonna flip it around so that I can take advantage of where the top is hinged currently. you can see in the picture of my sketch (it was quick and dirty) my plan for the canopy.

after removing all the screws and using a hammer and putty knife to free up the glue joint (thank goodness whoever built the stand didn't use a real wood glue, this stuff separated rather easily). I had already ripped the skirt boards to the approximate width, so today I cut them to the approximate length. It took a while because I only have a circular saw at my shop. This evening I was at my parents house and I finished installing the recall guard and new fence on my radial arm saw (dad has a bigger shop, so all the big stuff is at his place).

After the top was completely removed from the skirt, I clumsily knocked the top off of the workbench, when it hit the ground, it bent all four butt hinges. I'll be purchasing more of those this week
As well as purchasing some marine spar varnish to waterproof the bottom of the base cabinet (my goal is to create a "tub" floor that will have a drain in it to expel any overflow that may occur - 90 gallons of water in the office/foyer will probably earn me a divorce...)

Anyway, let me know what you think about the design/intent of the canopy, there's still plenty of time to modify it..


I've also included a couple pictures at the end of the original skirt of the canopy sitting on the tank (showing the corner and intersection details that I'll have to replicate in order to get the same fit)

[Rbredding]

OK, so it's been a while since I had the opportunity to work on the stand and aquarium, but I've got some more time now (got laid off Thursday).

About the stand...

I've really wanted to make the stand so it could hold a couple gallons of water and give me a head start on fixing a problem, should one occur. I'm also trying to figure out the best way to drain the canopy to the outside of my house so I can hopefully keep the floor of the office dry..

Last night I put the first (of two) coats of Kilz exterior oil based primer down on the interior of the stand. after I get the second one on this morning, and after it dries, I'll silicone all the wood to wood joints to help "keep everything inside"..

the white will make it easier to identify and wipe down any spills/leaks, and hopefully the hole in the back will let most of the water drain out the back wall to the side yard (even if it doesn't keep the office completely dry, maybe it'll keep 90gallons from being on the floor)

Here are some pictures..

[vista]

Originally Posted by Rbredding

I setup the RO/DI station in the laundry room this morning.. I was disappointed to find out that HD didn't carry compression fittings (only the pushlock type) I'm sure it'll be fine, I had to Y off the cold water washing machine valve and then reduce to 3/8" so I could use the valve that came with the "sink adapter"..

first time there was a leak that wouldn't stop no matter how much I torqued it, I disassembled it and removed/replaced the teflon tape... no leak now..

MAN does it just trickle out... seemed to take about 40 mins to get 1.5 gal...

maybe I'll just buy my water for the initial setup from a fish store...

Now I'm trying to decide.. Canopy or Sump.... which one is next (maybe a trip to the pool)

this is very cool setup. I would copy this setup when I get RO/DI system. 40 mins to get 1.5 gal.... it was too long

[Rbredding]

Originally Posted by vista

this is very cool setup. I would copy this setup when I get RO/DI system. 40 mins to get 1.5 gal.... it was too long

it seemed long to me too... I just checked it again and filled up a 5gal bucket in a little over 1.5hrs..

so I'm somewhere around 70-80 gallons/day..

[jonboyb]

That rate on the RO/DI sounds about right. My 75 GPD does about a gallon in 30 minutes. Over 2 hours for sure to fill my 5 gallon jug.

I also located the receipt for the filters if you want it. They were bought in March and installed before I got the unit. Sorry about the leak too

[Rbredding]

Originally Posted by jonboyb

That rate on the RO/DI sounds about right. My 75 GPD does about a gallon in 30 minutes. Over 2 hours for sure to fill my 5 gallon jug.

I also located the receipt for the filters if you want it. They were bought in March and installed before I got the unit. Sorry about the leak too

yes, the filter receipt would be great (if you can scan - email it even better)
The leak was my fault.. all in connections that I purchased and installed. The system, as I got it from you, works great..

[wbrown]

pause on using silicone against the interior of your base cabinet. Look at an acrylic latex caulk (white lighting). Silicone will release from the wood over time, the acrylic latex will not. Add that paint will not adhere to silicone, and you get the picture.

[Rbredding]

Originally Posted by wbrown

pause on using silicone against the interior of your base cabinet. Look at an acrylic latex caulk (white lighting). Silicone will release from the wood over time, the acrylic latex will not. Add that paint will not adhere to silicone, and you get the picture.

I've got both (Latex and Silicone) I wanted something that wouldn't harden over time and crack (which has happened to me more than once with a Latex caulk...


what about a urethane ?

[wbrown]

Can't comment on urethane, but siliconized latex should work without cracking. White Lightning has a 20 or 25 yr warranty, I'd think that'd be sufficient for use on a stand.

[Rbredding]

Originally Posted by wbrown

Can't comment on urethane, but siliconized latex should work without cracking. White Lightning has a 20 or 25 yr warranty, I'd think that'd be sufficient for use on a stand.

that's what I'm saying.. white lightning doesn't work for me.. in almost every application I've used it (caulking wood trim or built in casework) it shrinks up and leaves open cracks in a joint within 3 months..

[wbrown]

I gotta ask, are you letting it dry 24 hours first? I've used the stuff for many years on painting projects and home improvement stuff and have yet to have an issue.
You do have to tool in all caulking and sealants, either with a finger or cake decorating knife also.

[Rbredding]

I've used my finger and caulk tooling knives.. I'm not saying that White Lightning doesn't have it's uses.. I'm just looking for something to form a watertight seal, and I'm not impressed with it's ability to do that.. I was planning on using mildew resistant paintable silicone caulk.