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Old 10-25-2006, 9:18 PM   #1
ares ares is offline
 
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how should I bring out the color of my new acro

it was baby blue in cappacino bay, not bleached, it was just one of the most amazing colors of acro I had ever seen. a light blue body with darker blue tips.

they told me I should put it as close to the light as possible, which I have done, its probably 8-10" from a 250w halide.

though it looks healthy enough; its body has taken that typical brownish purple color acro can get. tips are still bright blue though.

I also got a green acro, with a vibrant green color. though it is green, it is not as vibrant as it was.

what might be causing them to not be showing their fullest colors? Im dosing with 2 part calcium and alk alternating daily. parameters all seem fine(magnesium is the only unknown, test kit is in the mail however)

any thoughts what I might be able to add to give them that last push from nice to WOW?

the green one has dulled a bit, this was right when it got home and still had its dark green color to it.


this is still what the blue one looks like more or less

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Old 10-25-2006, 9:32 PM   #2
glxtrix glxtrix is offline
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test for mag when you get your kit, make sure its up around 1300, if its low, only add about 100ppm per day. The only other thing that I really know is to make sure your blasting them with flow. I have a "brownout" acro and I have a scwd wave deal hitting it right on, and its starting to turn purpleish at the tips.

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Old 10-25-2006, 9:32 PM   #3
tsciarini tsciarini is offline
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tell us more about your system... filtration, lighting schedule, fish bioload, etc.

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Old 10-25-2006, 9:33 PM   #4
tsciarini tsciarini is offline
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...also your water parameters.

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Old 10-25-2006, 10:25 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glxtrix
The only other thing that I really know is to make sure your blasting them with flow.
Yes, I agree with Lee. Blast em with the flow from a spray paint can that preferably has green and blue hue in it. Make sure you shake the can first for about two minutes.

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Old 10-25-2006, 11:01 PM   #6
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75g, 2x250w halides. parameters are pretty standard, alk is around 4.5 calcium is around 375-400. not positive on it at this moment, they were holding steady so I havent tested recently.

I have an octopus needle wheel skimmer(nw150), temp is around 80degrees, 3 fish; powder blue tang, lawnmower blenny, clown fish. lots of snails. tons of flow thanks to a power head and 2 stream mod maxijets pushing about 1200gph each. I dont dose anything but alk and cal. I dont feel anything specific for the acro. I dont have the acro in direct flow because... it seemed like itd be too much; so it just gets the passive flow. do I really want water blasting at it?

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Old 10-26-2006, 12:33 AM   #7
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Lights......Cap uses 1000w lights. your 250's can't compete with that. Color of aros is basically "a suntan" on us. The color of an acro is based on the light and the color protects it. Like a suntan!!

That's a quick synopsis.

Let it color what it wants to. I have frags from Simon's tank in mine and it is from mother colony. Mine is now a completely different color than the original colony. Because my lights are different than Simon's

Todd

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Old 10-26-2006, 6:39 AM   #8
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i would suggest making the water as clear as possible. run carbon, and if you have the desire, ozone. This will clear the water of elements that will "filter" the water. Also, if you have glass between the light and the water, keep it clean.

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Old 10-26-2006, 6:55 AM   #9
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Phophates need to be 0 - I'm not talking "maybe 0 because of the test kit", but < 0.1 from a colorimeter. Algae growth will tell you a lot - if you have completely bare rocks (with only coraline algae), then this may be the case. Knowing that they are "fine" won't be good enough for this one...

You'll need a lot of light (> 300 PAR), good flow (I'm not sure 2,400gph in a 75g tank is enough; I've currently got 16,000gph in my 250g tank, and not sure it's enough...), and a lot higher alkalinity (> 10dKh). You'll need a little bit of nitrate in the system - 0-2ppm; usually created by the fish.

You may want to consider getting a small phosphate reactor and adding some Rowaphos or similar.

Lastly, sometimes it just takes 3-6 months for the coral to stabilize in your tank...
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Old 10-26-2006, 8:47 AM   #10
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Ill check the phosphates.

I cant imagine more flow; theres also the sump return, for an extra 500gph or so; but I dont think thats what your talking about. as it stands I tend to dig little holes in my sand bed in random places where the flow happens to deflect down. that had always been my problem. could never keep the sand bed where it belonged.

how should I raise the alkalinity? if I raise the alk, wont the calcium drop?

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Old 10-26-2006, 9:19 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ares
how should I raise the alkalinity? if I raise the alk, wont the calcium drop?
Slowly, with baking soda or a two part solution.

Check out the Reef Chemistry Calculator. I personally use Kent Turbo Calcium and baking soda to keep my stuff in check. Once it's all in balance, I check every weekend, and adjust which ever one needs to adjusted more. Keep in mind that I do have Ca and Alk reactors, so this may not be enough, depending on demand.

Shoot for a balanced calcium / alk ratio. I use 425ppm Ca / 12 dKh. Slowly drip or add any alk buffer over time- several hours or a full day if you're adding a lot.
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Old 10-26-2006, 9:30 AM   #12
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ok, Ill drip some baking soda in and see what happens.

I have and been using kent Tech.CB calcium buffer; which is 2 parts.

also kent reef carbonate. says it raises carbonate alk.

are these 2 doing what I want them to be doing?

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Old 10-26-2006, 9:40 AM   #13
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Yes, they'd all do it, but you'll get things out of whack easily using that many different things at once. I'd recommend sticking with only the 2-part buffer, and then using baking soda and that web page to figure out how much you need.
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Old 10-26-2006, 9:45 AM   #14
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ok, will do. only question then, which product do I pick on the calculator for the calcium?

kent turbocalcium?

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Old 10-26-2006, 9:49 AM   #15
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You calculate Ca vs Alk independant of each other on the calculator. I'm not sure what you have for Ca, so you can either not calculate it, use only half of the the two-part solution, or pick up something that will work. Check the drop down lists for your options...
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Old 10-26-2006, 10:21 AM   #16
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well testing is done, wow was I off. looks like 300ppm calcium, 2 alk, and .3 phosphates(whats this from? havent noted any unussual algea growth; actually been pretty good...)

with these numbers in the calculator, they dont agree... it says balanced calc alk is 3.2mg alk for 425calcium. or 600calcium for 12alk

am I missing something?

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Old 10-26-2006, 10:28 AM   #17
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Oops! I was off!

Balanced calcium is 446 ppm at 4.28 meq/l

4.28 meq/l = 12dKH

Some people say you can go a little lower on the alkalinity -I've heard as low as 9dKH, which gives a 425 ppm Calcium. Try both and see what works best for you.
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Old 10-26-2006, 10:33 AM   #18
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alright, last question; ok 2 questions.

1, which calcium additive do you suggest. if Im going to buy a new one, may as well get a reccomendation since their all the same to me at this point.

2. the calculator says to add 11tsps of baking soda(over a few days I assume); and on the calcium side, it wants me to add some amount of calcium additive. do I add both of these at the same time? seperate bowls or combine a small bowl of water with all the additive and all the baking soda and drip that solution in?

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Old 10-26-2006, 10:33 AM   #19
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ok lied again, whats with the .3 phosphates, whered they come from? I use RO/DI water.

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Old 10-26-2006, 10:41 AM   #20
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The only source of phosphates are food and the RO/DI water. Test your RO/DI water - if that's 0, the only thing left is your food.

How often are you feeding?
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