k...here goes..(its gonna be a long post)..

this continues on from my previous post about making a probe holder/switch holder. http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3838

so my problems are 1.) a fluctuating ph and 2.) regulating my ro/di filter so that it shuts off after filling my water reserve..

THINGS NEEDED....
1.) I found this site to buy solenoids and float switches from a previous post over on reef central..
http://www.mcmaster.com.. i ordered 3 of these solenoids part #7877K5 price #22.56. (2 of these solenoids are 120v and one is a 12v) and a float switch part #46515K41 price $15.17.

2.)4 float switches from ebay at $5 a piece.

3.)I purchased a radio shack project box part #270-1809 price $6.99
http://www.hifi-remote.com/hack/rs.shtml?27-1803

4.) 2 extension cords

5.) speaker or equivalent wire

6.) 4 1/4 male speed fit adapters form home depot part #pl-3004. found in the plumbing aisle

7.)teflon tape

8.)12 volt led

9.) 12 volt adaptor

how its done,,,,,,

first get your 1/4 speed fittings and wrap some teflon tape around them and screw into the solenoid.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/DSC00101.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/DSC00109.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/DSC00102.jpg
and wallah
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/DSC00110.jpg
then wire up your float switches in SERIES. ie one lead from one switch attaches to the lead from the next. And attach the speaker wire to the 2 ends that remain. this will act as the extension wire to the solenoid unit. (note only 1 set of switches in below picture you will do this twice for the second set)
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/DSC00116.jpg
then you get the project box and route out a hole in its lid for all 3 solenoids to screw in. and at the same time you route out a small hole at the bottom of the box for all the wires to enter and leave. also drill 2 small holes in the back of the box so you can mount the unit with screws.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/DSC00117.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/DSC00129.jpg
the almost finished face...
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/DSC00119.jpg
then drill a small hole in the face for a LED next to the 12v solenoid.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/DSC00127.jpg
cut the ends of both extension wires....note caution!!
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/NEWONE6.jpg
insert the 2 extension wires and speaker wires from float valves through the hole in the bottom of the box and attach as follows...
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/NEWONE.jpg
note the above diagram shows how to attach for 1 system from the float valves in SERIES. you will do this twice for the two sets of float valves for both 110v solenoids. for the third soleniod (12 volts) you do the same except you add the 12 volt led light in series also. I wanted to add the led so that i knew when my ro/di unit was on (making water).

this diagram might make things easier...
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/newonefinal.jpg
this is what you get once you solder all the wires. i used heat shrink to cover the joints and then covered with electrical tape just to be sure
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/NEWONE2.jpg
I mounted the unit with screws into the holes i made in the back of the box. Then i closed the cover. I drilled a hole in my water reserve container for the new float switch and screwed it in, followed by silicone application around the edges.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/NEWONE5.jpg
the float switch and probe holder in the sump....
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/NEWONE4.jpg
i attached all the ro/di tubing as needed.NOTE - there is an IN side and OUT side to the solenoid. attach all the plugs into the right sockets in my aquacontroller..and program it to turn on the right solenoid according to the ph. AND FINALLY THE FINISHED PRODUCT !!!!!!!!!!!!
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/NEWONE3.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/DSC00139.jpg


DISCLAIMER- im not responsible in any way for any injury of any type that occurs to anyone following my actions or directions in the above thread..do so at your own risk....

sorry had to throw that in there... i've been electricuted twice in the past...once with a faulty power head, and once more seriously with a faulty plug on a clothes dryer...(it hurt like h*ll)...

so i hope i gave you guys out there some hope in designing your own system, any questions ????

:o - wow man, nice work.

Wow Awesome!!! You did a great job with the step-by-step instructions, labeled pictures, and build. I love the LED status light.
:thumbs:

Awesome, Jaime! now come over and make me one!

Given your setup, any reason why you don't just go from the RO/DI straight to the sump without the res? If so, would you add a switch to this setup to shut it down when you are doing water changes?

Last question, seriously... I would pay for materials and an hourly rate for something like this or just a flat fee. Ever consider building this for some of the local reefers for some extra cash?

good question cameron...cause after all the reef tank crashes i've heard or read about i make sure i have back-up / disator plans in place. Ie a back up pump, 100 gallon saltwater reserve in my attic, and a 50 gallon ro/di water reserve incase of emergencies....basically i have 50 gallons of ro/di h20 availible at all times...

As for making these things, i've thought about it..but my time is very presious right now, working 80-100hrs a week as a resident im hard pressed to make sure even my reef tank stays running, hence all the back-up planning...maybe later on this year once i am in my final year....

Great answers and makes sense. I plan on having 40 gallons (20 salt, 20 unleaded) behind the aquarium, but for different reasons.

sweet! I love it. How are the solinoid valves holding up? I have heard some don't work very well when presented with back pressure...

holding up well ,,,it has stuck on the off position one time, but hoping it will not reoccur..im thinking that the pressure might be a little too much also. lines are very rigid when that pressure builds..will think about other ways to correct this problem...i cant place a pressure regulator before the ro/di filter b/c it will decrease the amount of h20 produced....

very nice. i'll have to do something like this when i get my tank going

got asked how this was doing..well almost a year old and still going strong..

Wow im very impressed. Its simple yet serves multiple purposes. Im gonna bookmark this and use this design when I can actually afford a fish room.

I love this setup. One of the better DIY jobs I have seen.

Very cool! What took longer putting it together or documenting it? Nice job on both!

Hey so how much do you charge an hour! that looks amazing.

quick question...should you really be wearing open toed shoes for this project? safety first!

:thumbs: I love it. Great job

Diggin up this oldie since its such a ridiculously awesome build. I need to make one of these.

Thanks for finding this build.
Where is Jaime? He's the one that got me on here.

It was WAY over my head when he did it but I now understand it well enough to attempt it. Its a great layout but I think I will have a water change line built in.

WOW.:wow:
Thanks for diggin that up Charlie!
Definetly over my head man.

He should build those and sell 'em.

Nah, I think hes like some surgeon or something now :)

this is sweet tho if my water res was not at a higher point then my sump how could i conect a small pump to this? only problom would be is how do i get the pump to turn on for each swich but not turn on the other swich

somthing like this

A B
\ /
D= pump

they bolth need to turn on the pump independently

Nah, I think hes like some surgeon or something now :)
Yeah I think he transfered to Tennessee to head that up. May be on a reef forum there. Pretty loyal dude. I know he supported the hell out of this when he was showing me pics of his tank from his phone at a Dr's meeting at my restaurant. That's when our wives walked off rolling their eyes......jeez. Search the rest of his threads guys. Makes me want to get a camera

this is sweet tho if my water res was not at a higher point then my sump how could i conect a small pump to this? only problom would be is how do i get the pump to turn on for each swich but not turn on the other swich

somthing like this

A B
\ /
D= pump

they bolth need to turn on the pump independently

Easiest way would be to just add a third float for the pump itself. Worst case it stayed on and pushed water into itself. If you fittings are good then they can keep the pressure of a small pump especially something like an aqua lifter. However if you are using float valves you should have NOTHING else in that part of the sump that could possibly touch the valves, no cheato, no clean up crew, NOTHING.


I do really miss Jaime. I was SUPER lucky to buy some frags from him before he moved and MAN they are some of the best corals I have ever seen!

Lucky! Let me know when you sell some frags.

Easiest way would be to just add a third float for the pump itself. Worst case it stayed on and pushed water into itself. If you fittings are good then they can keep the pressure of a small pump especially something like an aqua lifter. However if you are using float valves you should have NOTHING else in that part of the sump that could possibly touch the valves, no cheato, no clean up crew, NOTHING.


I do really miss Jaime. I was SUPER lucky to buy some frags from him before he moved and MAN they are some of the best corals I have ever seen!

ya that could work tho there most be some electric swich out there or maby a sercetbord that i could replicate

Yeah I am sure there is a way to run it so that the pump was turned on by both but its beyond me knowledge. Im sure someone like Mufret could figure it out.