View Full Version : Suggestions on Cleaning a filter sock!


kayakATL
12-22-2009, 11:27 AM
I have a felt filter sock that has been on 2.5 days and looks like a nitrate factory. How the heck do I clean this thing? Bleach comes to mind but I do not see that as a "reef safe" Solution. What advice can you offer me? I really need to find a second one.

SnowManSnow
12-22-2009, 11:29 AM
put it in washing machine with NO SOAP in hot water and wash it :)

it will come out nice and clean

jonboyb
12-22-2009, 11:31 AM
Turn inside out, rinse with water hose, soak in bleach/water solution, rinse VERY well with RO/DI, then soak with RO/DI and Prime. That's the way I do it becuase I don't want to run them through the washing machine. I fear the possible mechanical damage that might occur over time.

I usually keep several on-hand so I only do this like once a month. Just store the dirty ones in a water-filled container.

SnowManSnow
12-22-2009, 11:32 AM
when i did run them.. i just threw them in the machine... washed them.. rung them out .. let it dry on the porch and stuck it back in the sump.

no problems. little hassle

kayakATL
12-22-2009, 11:37 AM
I better not leave it on the porch in this weather.. I don't know if icy sock is what my tank would prefer. I can see the mechanical damage side too. So diluted bleach and a good rinse.... I really need one or 2 more. Better than rubber banded filter media though. That will have to be my alternate at the moment. It is too effective not to use at this point.

when i did run them.. i just threw them in the machine... washed them.. rung them out .. let it dry on the porch and stuck it back in the sump.

no problems. little hassle

Amici
12-22-2009, 11:39 AM
Washing machine with bleach and water. Then dry out throughly, the chlorine, when dried just becomes salt. After that I do an RODI and prime soak for about 20 minutes and then an RODI rinse. I am a little bit paranoid but I also like my filter socks ultra clean and bleach really breaks up the stuff in them.

kayakATL
12-22-2009, 11:41 AM
I guess i need some prime. I see everyone uses it. What exactly is it for? Not only in this case but across the board?

Amici
12-22-2009, 11:43 AM
Google is your friend in this hobby. :)

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Prime.html

JennM
12-22-2009, 11:44 AM
Washing machine with hot water and bleach. 2 rinses, Prime in both rinses. Let 'em dry.

I don't fool with RO water for washing socks, the Prime kills off any chlorine and if they dry out before I use them no tap water goes into the system anyway.

But then I rinse bags of carbon and such in tap water, shake 'em off and put them in. The few milliliters of tap water that might make it to a system are pretty inconsequential anyway.

Jenn

kayakATL
12-22-2009, 11:47 AM
Google is your friend in this hobby. :)

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Prime.html

Nice, so I should be adding some prime at every top off/WC? Btw, K3's will be here Thursday. Im sorry about the bombardment of threads over the past week! Hopeing to be ready for fish and coral after the new year.

kayakATL
12-22-2009, 11:50 AM
I do not have Prime, but I do have AmQuel Plus. Im sure its not as good as prime but will it work for today? Until I can pick up some Prime?

Amici
12-22-2009, 11:51 AM
Nice, so I should be adding some prime at every top off/WC? Btw, K3's will be here Thursday. Im sorry about the bombardment of threads over the past week! Hopeing to be ready for fish and coral after the new year.

Are you using RODI? You should be but if you aren't its probably the best de-chlorinator on the market IMO. You need to wait about 3-4 weeks before fish and I would say another week to 2 weeks AFTER that before adding corals. Don't rush it or you will end up with dead fish and a bunch of dead coral. What are your params testing at currently?

Don't worry about the bombardment at all! You're still getting your tank setup and were here to help. Now people (non-members especially) who start 15 WTB threads and pretty much use the site just for buying stuff is what really hacks me off. Keep the questions coming.

kayakATL
12-22-2009, 11:56 AM
Ph 8.2
Ammonia 0
TRITE 0
TRATE 10
Alk 10.9
Cal. 510
Phosphate 0
Sg 1.025

all test seachem or salifert.

No RODI yet, using a brita :doh: But testing all param out of it, no heavy metals, no copper, no chlorine. I hope someone has an RODI at the swap on the 12th.

kayakATL
12-22-2009, 12:41 PM
correction, cal is about 420. Todays WC should help with that a bit.

Amici
12-22-2009, 12:59 PM
Yeah if your cycle hasnt started yet then its going to be upwards of 4 weeks before you can add fish. Hold off on the water changes and just let the cycle do its work. If there arent any fish or corals then there isnt any need for a WC really because you want the bacteria culture to build up. Buy an RODI asap, its pretty essential in this hobby. Air Water Ice is a sponsor and has a $150 unit thats a great deal, I wouldnt get a used RODI since you will end up needing to buy new filters and possibly a membrane before using it to make sure its 0 TDS. An RODI is up there in importance with a skimmer IMO.

kayakATL
12-22-2009, 1:09 PM
Yeah if your cycle hasnt started yet then its going to be upwards of 4 weeks before you can add fish. Hold off on the water changes and just let the cycle do its work. If there arent any fish or corals then there isnt any need for a WC really because you want the bacteria culture to build up. Buy an RODI asap, its pretty essential in this hobby. Air Water Ice is a sponsor and has a $150 unit thats a great deal, I wouldnt get a used RODI since you will end up needing to buy new filters and possibly a membrane before using it to make sure its 0 TDS. An RODI is up there in importance with a skimmer IMO.

This tank is done cycling. It has been up over 6 weeks. We have already followed the nitrate cycle, had the attack of the algae, it has all but disappeared. Inverts have been hard at work 3.5 or 4 weeks. An RODI is on the list. I know that is the next MUST HAVE. Mg is the only test I still need. I am doing my WC to try and get nitrates down. Skimmer is doing pretty well, I still have it skimming pretty wet, I will be drying it out over time. The skimmer has only been running 5 days or so. A piece of LR I got has some pallys on it, and I have 2 mushrooms on one other piece of LR.

Amici
12-22-2009, 1:11 PM
Ahhh gotcha, I thought this just went up. Also be careful since you just moved the rocks around as that can cause a mini cycle. If you decide to add more rock, I would suggest dry rock to avoid another cycle. Just be sure you dont disturb the sand bed.

kayakATL
12-22-2009, 1:18 PM
DONT disturb the sand bed? I actually (regretfully) have coarse crushed coral bed. If I had known better (and not gotten the coarse crushed coral with the tank) I would have gone sand. I have been vacuuming the bed at every WC. Do I need to stop that so the bed has a better chance of becoming live?

Amici
12-22-2009, 2:26 PM
I would siphon it as best you can but not mix it up. A deep sand bed and fuge with cheato will help with nitrates. Crushed coral/gravel can't really become live like sand can. A sand bed build up a bacteria culture in it which makes it "live".

kayakATL
12-22-2009, 2:33 PM
Ok well then I am open to suggestion... Should I A. Remove coral bed and replace with sand
B. Place sand over the coral.
I have been considering this anyway. I do not know the better route. I would also give me the chance to put my LR on the glass if I remove the coral.
I have a small clump of Cheato in the fuge. I forgot to take a lit pic of the fuge. It is cheato and LR rubble.

Amici
12-22-2009, 3:06 PM
If your tank hasn't been up long and there isn't much worry of detritus causing a cycle I would remove it so the rock is on th bottom. Might want to do a mixture of sand and crushed coral to give some texture. If you plan on any sand sifters I would definately put the rock on the bottom to prevent a future collapse. Also could add some more rock at the same time. 1 lb per gallon is the bare min I would run in a tank personally.

kayakATL
12-22-2009, 3:11 PM
With displacement from the rock, I am sure I am at 1 lb/ gal including whats in sump. I may remove 1/2-3/4 of gravel, put rock on bare glass, and cover with sand. so... i see Live sand label on dry bags of sand... How is that possible? I am assuming it is marketing and BS.

kayakATL
12-22-2009, 3:18 PM
And one more question... Where should I get the sand? Is petsmart sand and LFS sand equel? Nothing else in the hobby is, so I will assume no, but in the interest of the almighty $...

Amici
12-22-2009, 3:19 PM
With displacement from the rock, I am sure I am at 1 lb/ gal including whats in sump. I may remove 1/2-3/4 of gravel, put rock on bare glass, and cover with sand. so... i see Live sand label on dry bags of sand... How is that possible? I am assuming it is marketing and BS.

I personally suggest 1.5 to 2 lbs per gallon of rock. The live sand usually has water in it and will be damp but not wet. IMO it's best to buy dry sand, rinse it well and then seed the sand with a cup of LS from a fellow reefers tank.

kayakATL
12-22-2009, 3:36 PM
I personally suggest 1.5 to 2 lbs per gallon of rock. The live sand usually has water in it and will be damp but not wet. IMO it's best to buy dry sand, rinse it well and then seed the sand with a cup of LS from a fellow reefers tank.

Dry sand from Home Depot? Or a marine specific sand? Sorry for the questions, I will most likely add a bit more LR, But I do have about 20 lbs of dry rock stacked in there, It will not take long for it to become live either.

While I am at it I will ask one more question. I have a small colony of palys on the bottom, i ATM have 2 CF lights. 1 power glo, 1 marine glow. These are going as soon as the T5s come in. What should my light cycle be to keep the palys healthy but also promote coraline and other growth and spread to the base rock?

Amici
12-22-2009, 4:40 PM
Dry sand from Home Depot? Or a marine specific sand? Sorry for the questions, I will most likely add a bit more LR, But I do have about 20 lbs of dry rock stacked in there, It will not take long for it to become live either.

While I am at it I will ask one more question. I have a small colony of palys on the bottom, i ATM have 2 CF lights. 1 power glo, 1 marine glow. These are going as soon as the T5s come in. What should my light cycle be to keep the palys healthy but also promote coraline and other growth and spread to the base rock?

Its a big debate on if sand from HD will leach silica into the water. Some says yes and that the tanks are able to dissolve it which leads to diatoms, some say its inert. I would get sand harvested for a reef tank as it will also help with buffering the tank. You can also get pure white, pink, black, black & white sand so there are a lot of options.

With two CF bulbs I would move any corals up as much as you can. That is not much light for corals at all. When you get the new lights I would either:
A) Start with 2 hours for three days, 3 hours for three days, 4 hours for three days etc until you hit 8 hours a day.
B) Start off with 4-6 hours a day and raise the lights up about 12-14 inches, then increase the light cycle slowly and slowly lower the light.
C) Use eggcrate wrapped in bird gardening mesh to reduce the light transmitting and take a layer of mesh off over time.

I would suggest option A personally.

As far as coralline growth, it prefers mostly low light but keeping your calc, alk and mag all in line and up will help the most. Ive noticed that in higher light conditions coralline grows slower.

kayakATL
12-23-2009, 2:04 AM
Alright... So I pulled most of the crushed coral and put the sand in. Looks like it will be at least next week before I get that light and install it. We are really liking the look of the sand over the crushed coral aesthetically.Now I just need a little live sand to seed this stuff. Thanks for all the help. I will see what I can do to offer some better coral placement and grab a bit more LR. My next investment however will of coarse be an RODI.

cr500_af
12-23-2009, 9:07 AM
Sand over the coral will quickly turn into sand UNDER the coral. The smaller particles always make their way to the bottom.

Amici
12-23-2009, 12:03 PM
Alright... So I pulled most of the crushed coral and put the sand in. Looks like it will be at least next week before I get that light and install it. We are really liking the look of the sand over the crushed coral aesthetically.Now I just need a little live sand to seed this stuff. Thanks for all the help. I will see what I can do to offer some better coral placement and grab a bit more LR. My next investment however will of coarse be an RODI.

If you have well established LR it can seed the sand with the bacteria it needs. However seeding the sand will help to get it going quicker. Make sure your sand bed is at least 4-5 inches, any shallower and it wont help with nitrates.