Here are my intentions: (I thought I already posted this, but couldn't find it)

I'd like to start (or is it develop) a mixed reef tank that is relatively easy to keep clean (i've got a touch of OCD) and here's what I'm starting with:

*60X18X20 glass tank with overflow boxes in the corners (Durso type standpipes, return lines with lockline)
*AMiracle ProLine 2000 trickle filter that has been Frankenstein'd that I'm probably going to use later as a frag tank
*30SF of 3/16" acrylic that will become my sump with refugium (magically?)
*Fluval 404 canister filter
*Aquanetics UV sterilizer (needs a new lamp - will replace starter also)
*Several powerheads for circulation in the tank
*Berlin Classic Skimmer with pump
*Blue Line 40HD-X external pump (when I first plugged it in it was frozen)
*Canopy for the unit contains 2 MH lamps and 4 T12 HO fluorescents with actenic bulbs and 3 LED moon lights.. (I'll be modifying the height of the canopy skirt to get the MH's up off the water more)
*Aquanetics Chiller 1/5HP inline with controller
*Base cabinet to hide all this stuff...

-newly acquired KNOP C Ca reactor and 6 stage RO/DI (by the way, Nice to meet you Loren and Jon)

I got all this stuff on trade from a buddy at work, it was used (from a guy that owned a LFS) and for the most part it all runs well and I was able to clean it up (I'd never torn apart a magnetic water pump before, but it too, after a cleaning is running properly)..


In the end: I want a setup that's relatively low maintenance, easy to wipe down and keep clean, and efficient..

Future purchases will be:
Regulator and Tank for the Ca Reactor
Controller to automate as much of the process as possible for a budget


__________________________________________________ ____________

Today was the first day in weeks that I was able to work on the stand a little. All the hardware was corroded and rusted and the particular hinge took me about a week of searching to find (I didn't know what the name was for that type of hinge and it was impossible to describe to someone - see below) MRS Rbredding wanted the knobs to match the rest of the furniture in the office, and I'm happy with the hinge color, since you can see them, I like that they are darker to blend in better

I got the old hardware off, had a bit of mortising to do in order to get the new hinges to fit, but everything came together nicely. Here are the pics, pretty self explanatory..

I also got the cherry plywood ripped to the correct width so I could start planning the canopy raise... (I'll post some pictures tomorrow of the "before" shots

This is gonna be a nice build!!

Nice Ron. I've got a regulator when you are in the area.

Nice Ron. I've got a regulator when you are in the area.

HAHA

guess I should have asked you about it earlier... PM or email me the info when you've got the time

Here are a couple shots of what I have to work with that were sent to me before I traded for the tank..(the canopy is upside down on the stand) I've already stripped all the lighting out of the canopy and tested everything.. the Actinics are wired in series and I think i've got a bulb out because they will flash but won't fire... the ballast is a icecap 660 and it's in very good shape. I'm going to pick up 4 new bulbs on the way home tonight and see if I can get them going..


The main reason for raising the skirt is to get the MH lamps higher off the water (right now they are about 4" off the water - I'd like them between 6"-8")

I'm also trying to figure out a canopy design that will enable me to access the canopy AND have the tank lit with lights.. right now, when you pick up the top lid, you're blinded by the lights and the tank is dark..

I'm thinking about spinning it around and modifying everything so that the front 4" of the canopy will flip up like a box top..
we'll see... (any suggestions of designs you've seen work?)

That looks to be a very nice stand. Should turn out well (but most OCD projects usually do:D).

That's a really thin canopy too for MH. IF you could raise the height enough to give you some raised panel flip up doors that might give you enough flexibility to do feeding and minor maintenance.

Equally nice to meet you. If you ever need help or extra set of hands feel free to call.

I really like your stand. I was going to stain mine, but Im too lazy to strip the paint off.

I setup the RO/DI station in the laundry room this morning.. I was disappointed to find out that HD didn't carry compression fittings (only the pushlock type) I'm sure it'll be fine, I had to Y off the cold water washing machine valve and then reduce to 3/8" so I could use the valve that came with the "sink adapter"..

first time there was a leak that wouldn't stop no matter how much I torqued it, I disassembled it and removed/replaced the teflon tape... no leak now..

MAN does it just trickle out... seemed to take about 40 mins to get 1.5 gal...

maybe I'll just buy my water for the initial setup from a fish store...

Now I'm trying to decide.. Canopy or Sump.... which one is next (maybe a trip to the pool)

YAY ME...
I got to start on the canopy today, first order was deconstructing the original (which was glued and screwed together) I'm going to keep the top pretty much as is, only I'm gonna flip it around so that I can take advantage of where the top is hinged currently. you can see in the picture of my sketch (it was quick and dirty) my plan for the canopy.

after removing all the screws and using a hammer and putty knife to free up the glue joint (thank goodness whoever built the stand didn't use a real wood glue, this stuff separated rather easily). I had already ripped the skirt boards to the approximate width, so today I cut them to the approximate length. It took a while because I only have a circular saw at my shop. This evening I was at my parents house and I finished installing the recall guard and new fence on my radial arm saw (dad has a bigger shop, so all the big stuff is at his place).

After the top was completely removed from the skirt, I clumsily knocked the top off of the workbench, when it hit the ground, it bent all four butt hinges. I'll be purchasing more of those this week :doh:
As well as purchasing some marine spar varnish to waterproof the bottom of the base cabinet (my goal is to create a "tub" floor that will have a drain in it to expel any overflow that may occur - 90 gallons of water in the office/foyer will probably earn me a divorce...)

Anyway, let me know what you think about the design/intent of the canopy, there's still plenty of time to modify it..


I've also included a couple pictures at the end of the original skirt of the canopy sitting on the tank (showing the corner and intersection details that I'll have to replicate in order to get the same fit)

OK, so it's been a while since I had the opportunity to work on the stand and aquarium, but I've got some more time now :sad: (got laid off Thursday).

About the stand...

I've really wanted to make the stand so it could hold a couple gallons of water and give me a head start on fixing a problem, should one occur. I'm also trying to figure out the best way to drain the canopy to the outside of my house so I can hopefully keep the floor of the office dry..

Last night I put the first (of two) coats of Kilz exterior oil based primer down on the interior of the stand. after I get the second one on this morning, and after it dries, I'll silicone all the wood to wood joints to help "keep everything inside"..

the white will make it easier to identify and wipe down any spills/leaks, and hopefully the hole in the back will let most of the water drain out the back wall to the side yard (even if it doesn't keep the office completely dry, maybe it'll keep 90gallons from being on the floor)

Here are some pictures..

I setup the RO/DI station in the laundry room this morning.. I was disappointed to find out that HD didn't carry compression fittings (only the pushlock type) I'm sure it'll be fine, I had to Y off the cold water washing machine valve and then reduce to 3/8" so I could use the valve that came with the "sink adapter"..

first time there was a leak that wouldn't stop no matter how much I torqued it, I disassembled it and removed/replaced the teflon tape... no leak now..

MAN does it just trickle out... seemed to take about 40 mins to get 1.5 gal...

maybe I'll just buy my water for the initial setup from a fish store...

Now I'm trying to decide.. Canopy or Sump.... which one is next (maybe a trip to the pool)

this is very cool setup. I would copy this setup when I get RO/DI system. 40 mins to get 1.5 gal.... it was too long

this is very cool setup. I would copy this setup when I get RO/DI system. 40 mins to get 1.5 gal.... it was too long

it seemed long to me too... I just checked it again and filled up a 5gal bucket in a little over 1.5hrs..

so I'm somewhere around 70-80 gallons/day..

That rate on the RO/DI sounds about right. My 75 GPD does about a gallon in 30 minutes. Over 2 hours for sure to fill my 5 gallon jug.

I also located the receipt for the filters if you want it. They were bought in March and installed before I got the unit. Sorry about the leak too:D

That rate on the RO/DI sounds about right. My 75 GPD does about a gallon in 30 minutes. Over 2 hours for sure to fill my 5 gallon jug.

I also located the receipt for the filters if you want it. They were bought in March and installed before I got the unit. Sorry about the leak too:D

yes, the filter receipt would be great (if you can scan - email it even better)
The leak was my fault.. all in connections that I purchased and installed. The system, as I got it from you, works great..

pause on using silicone against the interior of your base cabinet. Look at an acrylic latex caulk (white lighting). Silicone will release from the wood over time, the acrylic latex will not. Add that paint will not adhere to silicone, and you get the picture.

pause on using silicone against the interior of your base cabinet. Look at an acrylic latex caulk (white lighting). Silicone will release from the wood over time, the acrylic latex will not. Add that paint will not adhere to silicone, and you get the picture.

I've got both (Latex and Silicone) I wanted something that wouldn't harden over time and crack (which has happened to me more than once with a Latex caulk...


what about a urethane ?

Can't comment on urethane, but siliconized latex should work without cracking. White Lightning has a 20 or 25 yr warranty, I'd think that'd be sufficient for use on a stand.

Can't comment on urethane, but siliconized latex should work without cracking. White Lightning has a 20 or 25 yr warranty, I'd think that'd be sufficient for use on a stand.
that's what I'm saying.. white lightning doesn't work for me.. in almost every application I've used it (caulking wood trim or built in casework) it shrinks up and leaves open cracks in a joint within 3 months..

I gotta ask, are you letting it dry 24 hours first? I've used the stuff for many years on painting projects and home improvement stuff and have yet to have an issue.
You do have to tool in all caulking and sealants, either with a finger or cake decorating knife also.

I've used my finger and caulk tooling knives.. I'm not saying that White Lightning doesn't have it's uses.. I'm just looking for something to form a watertight seal, and I'm not impressed with it's ability to do that.. I was planning on using mildew resistant paintable silicone caulk.

Well, I finally had the chance to get on my canopy modifications.....

I wanted to use as many of the existing parts as possible, yet raise the lights at least 6" from their original position.

I rough cut the plywood a while ago and was too busy to start the process until today.

I had to notch the lower edge of the plywood sides in order to help copy the original fit. I mitered the corners, and still have supports to build into the canopy to strengthen the sides and help square up the front (the front panel had a slight bow in it).

I've got some more work to do before I'm ready to mount the MH's and the VHO's..
LIKE:
*add the supports and verify the layout for the lighting
*add two fans to the sides (pulling air in which will exit the back/top)
*add a few other strips of wood to the interior to help black out the joints at the sides
*Stain the exterior to match the other pieces (and paint the interior with kilz to help in protecting the wood)



and of course, get started on the sump...

Thats going to be a super nice setup!!

Looking great! I need to figure out how to put some vents in my hood...

Looking great! I need to figure out how to put some vents in my hood...

the vents in mine were done with a plunge router and a straightcut bit

I'd rather not have them now that I'm adding the fans.. with the back open and the fans pulling in fresh air from the room, the cooling effect will be more than enough to help minimize the chiller's "on time"...





THANKS LEGAL REEFER...

making the front open without shining the lights directly in my face came from a friend at work... (i'm also going to add a small screen behind the section that lifts up to further keep the light out of my eyes)

I'm planning on running a piece across the back of the tank that is 4" high to keep jumpers in the tank (will be almost 6" above the top of the water)

(any other suggestions will be appreciated..)

Yeah, I don't have a chiller. 8 3" fans along the back and 4" fans on the ends all pushing air in and it will go out the top. I think I'm just going to get some vents and cut out an area in the canopy to drop them in.

A couple days ago I got the regulator repaired that I picked up from Loren..


I replaced both gauges, (the first tank pressure gauge was defective so I had to get another one from another manufacturer)

replaced the O-Ring and had to use a split nut to hold everything together (original knurled nut and spring washer were gone when I got the setup)

Where are the fish?

:(

I'm workin' on it... I just finished re-sealing the entire tank. (it was manufactured in 1995)

The tank was manufactured with clear silicone and has black trim, I re-sealed it with black silicone and I think it looks A LOT better

I'll post pictures later today...


I'm one of the THOUSANDS of unemployed construction workers so that's slowed the progression of the tank slightly
but the main thing is that I still need to do the sump, at that point.. I'm 98% ready for water..

I'm one of the THOUSANDS of unemployed construction workers
I feel your pain. I haven't worked since November.. market SUCKS.

:(

I'm workin' on it... I just finished re-sealing the entire tank. (it was manufactured in 1995)

The tank was manufactured with clear silicone and has black trim, I re-sealed it with black silicone and I think it looks A LOT better

I'll post pictures later today...


I used Black Silicone for the vertical (seen) joints and clear for the bottom...
I only did this because I ordered 1 tube of the black and didn't have enough to do the whole tank and Marine Designs only had the clear silicone in stock..

I used Aquarium Silicone brand caulk

Here are the original shots with the clear silicone joints (as manufactured) for comparison...

http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18081&d=1247536032
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18082&d=1247536058

OK, so I started buying live rock this past weekend (thanks Kevin) and couldn't resist the 30gal tank he had..

so, after essentially transferring the tank to my house, adding a filter (got one in my box o crap a cpl months ago) and making up some RO water..

here's the tank in it's temp location.. it will become a FOWLR tank in my daughter's room (she's 19mo. old) and a place to move fish in case anything happens to my 90 (which is still on schedule to be ready to get wet by first of next week at the latest)

the last 2 pictures are the 90 (in waiting)

Looking really good!

I was going to build a new sump which contained an inlet area, a refugium, and a return area. The material I purchased for the sump were really too thin for the size and volume that I had intended for the sump (3/16" as opposed to 1/4" or 5/16"). I also didn't do a very good job of welding it up because it leaked. I scrapped it all together and after visiting a couple shops and talking with a few "professionals" I decided to use the sump that came with the system (but it was broken, so I'd have to fix it)

Here are the modifications I made to the sump...
Originally it was an Amiracle 2000 trickle filter (used bio balls and a trickle plate)
STOCK PHOTO
http://www.newworldaquarium.com/images/pro-line-filter%20copy.gif

one of the previous owners had drilled/punched/broken a couple holes in the baffles to change the initial role of the "inlet" area.. they added a holder for a manual ATO float valve, and also had cracked the other baffle (either on accident or in another attempt to change the initial intent of the sump)

Here's what I did....
First - had to repair the first inlet chamber, so I cut a sheet of clear acrylic and routed teeth in the top of it..
Next - I cut a piece of acrylic that I could use to act as a splice for the other cracked baffle (which doesnt extend to the bottom of the sump and will act as a very simple bubble trap for surface bubbles in the return section)

I also plugged the original inlet that's cut towards the top of one end (see my cap/o-ring/bushing effort?)

here's a video link to the flow of the system (http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/rredding/?action=view&current=SumpWaterTest.flv)

Where are the fish?
OK...

so I've picked up an established 30 gallon tank and purchased a quarantine tank...

Here are the inhabitants.. Clowns in the 30... Midas Blenny still getting used to its surroundings in the quarantine tank.. (when it's happy, it's a golden color with sort of an orange head.. when it's not happy.. it looks like this.. LOL)

Cute little inhabitants!!!

Can't wait to see this tank up and running. It's going to be sooooo nice

Looks great man!
Super nice job on the canopy:up:

Thanks, I'm going to set the lights up this weekend, I've got the canopy refinished and it's all stained out.... It matches the base cabinet pretty well if I do say so myself..

I loooooooove the color! It looks so nice!

OK... aside from the canopy that is almost completely wired..


Yesterday I added the circuit for the aquarium.. luckily the meterbox is on the opposite side of the wall I want to put the aquarium on..

I'm running a single 30A circuit and I will have a small distribution box and outlets that will mount inside the canopy, powered by a single powercord that will be 10ga (to carry the current of the 30A aquarium subpanel)

Here are the pictures..

I'm not an electrician, and there was no way to cut power to the panel... I wouldn't recommend running your own circuit unless you've got experience doing so..

I will leave it up to others to comment further but I have a few questions;

1) modifying the feed power distribution box, is that legal, i thought they belong to the power company?
2) did you turn off the power before doing this modification, if so how?
3) im not 100% on the local code requirements but shouldnt all external cables be armoured? I see you put yours in a protective pipe.
4) 30 amps, what guage cable are you using? It looks like 15 or 20 amp cable.

I was an electrician in a previous life ;-) and my questions are based on other international experience. I just dont want you to have any problems.

before you think im being negative :-) I love the cabinetary work. Awesome job.

Very nice build. Its gonna be an awsome tank when its all said and done. Keep the pictures coming.

beautiful tank!

I will leave it up to others to comment further but I have a few questions;

1) modifying the feed power distribution box, is that legal, i thought they belong to the power company?
2) did you turn off the power before doing this modification, if so how?
3) im not 100% on the local code requirements but shouldnt all external cables be armoured? I see you put yours in a protective pipe.
4) 30 amps, what guage cable are you using? It looks like 15 or 20 amp cable.

I was an electrician in a previous life ;-) and my questions are based on other international experience. I just dont want you to have any problems.
1.)Once you get downstream of the meter, you can do as you wish within the NEC and local ordinances.
2.) See the main breaker in the pic, I'd guess he did, however it's optional as long as you keep your head out of your shorts. ;)
3.) weathertite conduit, non metallic is per NEC. *EDIT* Primary wiring prior to breaker or disconnect is required to be armored,not downstream of a breaker or fuse.
4.) should be 12G min., 10G optimal for 30A circuit. I can't tell either what gauge from the photo.

Looks better than my subpanel added to the garage- slash frag room. Good job!

I will leave it up to others to comment further but I have a few questions;

1) modifying the feed power distribution box, is that legal, i thought they belong to the power company?
2) did you turn off the power before doing this modification, if so how?
3) im not 100% on the local code requirements but shouldnt all external cables be armoured? I see you put yours in a protective pipe.
4) 30 amps, what guage cable are you using? It looks like 15 or 20 amp cable.

I was an electrician in a previous life ;-) and my questions are based on other international experience. I just dont want you to have any problems.
HAHA.. thanks for the kudos on the millwork... and for your concern. I consulted a master electrician to help verify that my intent was both legal and met all required codes...
Here's what I used for the electrical work..

1 - yes, it's legal because it is a disconnect, the EC owns the meter itself, the combination socket/loadcenter is/was installed by the electrical contractor when the house was built.
2 - no, but I have extensive experience working in a "hot" panel both on commercial sites and in residential work (I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND THIS TO ANYONE UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE)
3 - The conduit used was carflex 1" liquidtight flexible conduit with the appropriate watertight fittings. The use of this conduit system is only limited in the number and size of conductors that are allowed to be used within the conduit (due to heat buildup - the same thing that limits other conduits). External conduits do not have to be metal for residential applications. Most residential service entrances are PVC and direct burial cable.
4 - The conductor used was #10 Romex shielded cabling, I could have also used #10 THHN individual conductors, but chose the Romes shielded cabling because I had some left over from when I added a circuit to a home remodel for the AC Condensing unit.

Looks better than my subpanel added to the garage- slash frag room. Good job!THANKS!! (I know that you KNOW your stuff, I appreciate it..)

when I ran the 4 circuits to the third bay of my garage, I used EMT, fully shielded and commercial steel boxes... my shop has external EMT conduit with individual conductors and flexible MC cabling.. it's a beautiful thing..

LOL

it's like walking into an industrial manufacturing facility..

got any updates?

not with the new job, training for the Chicago Marathon next weekend and building out my parents basement...

but stay tuned..

I've got all the parts, I just need to put them together in an intelligent manner..

after 10 months I landed a job in my field of expertise, but at a substantial decrease in pay.
Hopefully the pain will end soon, even if you have to set your sights a bit lower.
good luck!

The 30gal is now in it's home... (the kitchen)

Here are some shots..
Inhabitants:
Pair of Ocellaris Clowns
Midas Blenny
Regal Blue Tang
Longhorn Cowfish
Blue Damsel
Flame Angelfish
Pair of Cleaner Shrimp
Fire Shrimp

Beautiful fish selection. That cowfish is really cool. One thing though, if he goes missing then find him quick! We had one die in a store and it nuked the tank. FYI if you need more LR, I have a ton!

Beautiful fish selection. That cowfish is really cool. One thing though, if he goes missing then find him quick! We had one die in a store and it nuked the tank. FYI if you need more LR, I have a ton!

LOL I've heard about the cowfish... He's the first little guy we all look for.. I know it doesn't look like it, but there's over 40# of LR in there.. I may take yo up on that when I have the 90 up and running...

Glad you liked the pics..

Tank is looking good!

But definitely be careful with that Cowfish!
The way you have it set up makes it look bigger than a 30!

Today I got the chance to move the stand and tank inside.. I had to finish up the power supply system and mount the MH Ballasts on the back.. I think It was a pretty good setup that I came up with, it will allow me to change the ballasts out, should they go bad without moving the tank (you just slide them up and off the screws and then the bottom will tilt out..) I've got a piece of Acrylic that will mount over the ballasts and make sure that any splashes from overhead don't touch them.
[/URL]
I also mounted the light for the refugium..
[URL="http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19885&stc=1&d=1256444820"] (http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19883&stc=1&d=1256444820)
For the Power Supply system, I'd already mounted the 30A outlet, but had to build the power cord, mount the distribution box, and add the GFCI's. Since it took me so long to get to this point, I had the Apex Energy Bar and DC4HD to install also..
First I figured out which outlets should serve which components, then I labeled everything with the label-maker. I laid out everything to make sure that it would all fit and it would all stay as far from the water as possible. Next I built the distribution box and set up two 15A circuits (each circuit will power 4 GFCI protected outlets) the Right breaker handles the double gang box on the right and the Left breaker handles the double gang box on the left. The Energy Bar will run on one circuit and the DC4HD will run on the other.

Here are some pictures of the initial setup and steps involved..

(http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19889&stc=1&d=1256444820)

.....ALMOST... :lol2:



The Apex is setup and connected to the computer (did that Sunday afternoon). The temperature probe is installed, but I've still got the PH Probes in their boxes.. (one for CA Reactor, one for sump)

I've also renamed all the outlets and I'm going to work on finalizing the programming for everything over the long weekend..

I can take sand anytime I get it... (I'm planning on Seachem Meridian)...

I'm filling the 35gal with RO water...



I feel like I should hear a building instrumental in the background...

I put the first batch of mixed salt water in lastnight... I'll post the pictures later..

it's time to get wet...

Slacker!!

filtering RO water now for the final push to fill it up... tomorrow night probably..

Here are a couple shots of the fill up and just over 60# of live rock. I'll probably get another 40 or so this weekend.

Lastnight I was having an issue with the drains......


Both the drains at the right and left ends are 1" and they plumb together under the tank, all the drain lines were 1" PVC...

I was getting the gurgle and uneven flow coming out of the drains so I increased the size of them to 1.5" from the point they come together to where they flow into the sump. That did away with the problem, but I was plumbing new drains for the tank at 10:00 while it was filled with water.. (not the ideal situation)

I also don't think the durso style overflows are working very well (with the return pump running on full, the overflows can't keep up) I'm going to increase the size of the top 6" of the overflow to 1.5" also. This will give more surface area for the water in the overflow to enter the drain and keep the 1" drains running at top efficiency..

Why are you plumbing your drains together at all? Just asking...

I didn't want an entire return to flow through my fuge... I want to be able to determine how much of my overflow water goes into the refugium and I want the balance of it to go into the sump....


water enters the sump from the left side, and the return is on the right side of the sump. (pictures of the sump are a few pages back.. )

You said you plumbed your -drains- together... that's what I was asking about. Return line I understand plumbing together... not the drain.

You said you plumbed your -drains- together... that's what I was asking about. Return line I understand plumbing together... not the drain.I meant I didn't want an entire overflow drain to flow into my refugium..


the drains are in the back left and right, the sump is on the left (and water enters it on the left side). My right drain comes across the cabinet and connects to my left drain (which goes straight down into the sump)..

there is a T in the drain coming from the right that dumps into my refugium it has a gate valve on it so I can regulate flow into the fuge..

Ok. I guess what I'm confused about is that your plumbing seems to be backward from how I'm used to seeing it (not criticizing here... just wanna learn :) ).

On my 180g, for example, I have two overflows/returns. The overflows are plumbed separately all the way to the sump as this allows for true redundancy, should one back up, and I get maximum flow from them both as flow from one is not interfering with the other.

At the sump, I've got my return pump which directs water into my refugium, which is a separate 75g tank and back to my display. This keeps any garbage or detritus that may have migrated from my display from being deposited into my lower flowing refugium. The refugium, btw, has it's own overflow back to the sump.

I only ask because you are posting problems with flow and noise on your overflows and that your durso's aren't working very well. IMO I believe it's because you have your overflows plumbed together. I just wanted to get your insight as to why you did it the way you did it as you maybe you've got very valid reasons. :D

I got you... I understand the reason for your questions, I appreciate the insight..

you're correct, there is no redundancy in my system (for the drains..) but that wouldn't matter because a single overflow in my tank functioning would not keep the display from overflowing... (gravity flow through a 1" pipe is severely less than pressurized flow through a pipe)

Admittedly, the possibility that even a single overflow would clog is pretty remote, my main thinking is that tying them together is the cause for your other issues. I'm just wondering how difficult it would be to reconfigure your overflows? Just a thought.

And, btw, I really do like your tank. :)

I appreciate it... I'm excited about what the tank could become with some effort..

The problem with the gurgling evaporated when I increased the size of the drain past the 2nd tie in... I do still have the issue with the durso standpipes not working to their full potential.. the "drain elevation" of the pipe in the overflow is about 2" lower than the skimmer (I'll try to get a picture up before tomorrow and try to replicate the problem)

My effort is to put the tank in varying states of malfunction and try to circumvent possible issues in the future..

I didn't take any of your posts as criticism...


honestly, I think that the reason that the 1" line running from the far right to the far left in the cabinet actually was the problem, I think that the water hit that (almost) horizontal slope and slowed down, backing up the standpipe on the right side..
now, the drain has about 6% of fall from right to left...

honestly, I think that the reason that the 1" line running from the far right to the far left in the cabinet actually was the problem, I think that the water hit that (almost) horizontal slope and slowed down, backing up the standpipe on the right side..
now, the drain has about 6% of fall from right to left...

Ah! That'd make sense. :yes: That's kinda what I was thinking is that the water was slowing down at some point. Post up some close ups of the under tank gear.

I mention my 180g build but, it's been in progress since before Sept as I am moving slowly on purpose to get everything right.

OK, pictures... (in order) Right Drainage, Center Drainage, Left Drainage, Drainage at Refugium, Drainage at Sump, Return Pump (PVC runs up the back center support and T's off to go left and right for the returns).

Couple other pictures:
Water level in the Overflow at the Left then Right boxes, followed by 3 pictures of what I perceive to be part of the issue (Durso and a couple shots of it removed)

I still think you should not be feeding your fuge from your overflows. Any suspended garbage from your display tank that gets to the overflow will now end up in your fuge where the flow is much less. Most likely it'll settle and cause a nitrate problem in the future. I'd cap that drain and run a "t" off my return line to feed the fuge. Put a valve in there to control the flow to the fuge. This way only "clean" water makes it into your fuge.

From the pics it looks like your durso is working correctly. Water level is where I'd expect to see it at any rate. What's it doing that makes you think it's not working?

And I do like your under stand set up btw. Very clean.

I guess I was expecting the Durso's to drain the water lower/faster than that..

right now, my return line has a bypass back to the sump (a loop so I can dial in the return flow)

if the return pump were going full bore, it would outrun the drains.. (I dont know how to find out the "drainage capacity" of the overflows). Ideally, I'd like the pump to be equal to the drainage capacity, plus the head pressure... but i'm sure it's almost impossible to find a pump that's exactly matched to your drainage.. the pump I've got is the BlueLine 40hd whatever (listed in the original post)

clean layout is paramount to me... just wait till I get the cord management system in place...

(and thanks again)

You actually don't want the pump matched to the drain's max. Over time you may get slime/sludge in the line and it could slow the flow. Ideally you want sump flow 3-5x tank volume, and the drain size shouldn't matter as long as it fits.

so does everyone just run a loop off the return to address the issue?

it's not like return pumps have a variable dial on them or anything..

so does everyone just run a loop off the return to address the issue?

it's not like return pumps have a variable dial on them or anything..

you can add a gate valve to fine tune the return amount. Just make sure you add it to the return side and not the drain side if you use one.

FWIW, my sump is basically nothing more than a fuge itself. I don't worry about detritus and what not settling in the sand. Makes for great food for the fuge residents. Plus, I stir the top layer of sand every so often and put it back into suspension...the filter feeders go crazy over it.

so does everyone just run a loop off the return to address the issue?


What's the issue? If the drain can handle the pump at max after head pressure and everything, then the tank won't overflow. The drain will only drain as fast as the pump pumps water. I have valves on my return pump to regulate that flow, and have a T off to the fuge so I can control that flow as well.

The drains can't handle the pump at max (somewhere around 1020 GPH) that's what started this discussion. I wasn't happy with the rate at which I had to dial back my pump so that the overflows could keep up. I like the idea of the fuge pulling straight from the display overflows and I like that I can modify that flow as I choose (into the refugium). I would just prefer to be able to drain faster and I'm trying to figure out a way to do that given what I've got to work with on the bulkheads in the overflows..

On a 90g tank, 1000gph through the drains is too quick. You would want something in the 300-500gph range.

I left the dursos like they were... the tanks been up and running for a cpl days now..

no lights though.....

I put a filter sock on that sump inlet so I'm catching the crap that the ph's are stirring up... people weren't kidding, this meridian is some fine stuff... lol

*The tank is cycling (90gal display) with a Refugium, and sump(with filtersock).
*I've got some LR in the Display, nothing in the refugium, nothing in the sump.
*There are two undersized powerheads stirring the display tank (haven't got the Tunze 6065s up and running yet)

When should I "stock" the refugium? (I was thinking about Chaeto - what else should I put in there? LR? Sand? anything else?)

I've still got to add about 40-50lbs of LR to the display tank..


I've got "rust" that's shown up on the walls of the refugium - I assume it's diatoms due to the fact that I'm just starting the cycle and the fuge has much slower flow than the sump/display...

Ron:

On my standalone fuge, I just run a big chaeto ball and bare bottom. I have a small ph in there because I'm only giving it 50 gph flow to stir the chaeto a bit. I may add a little LR rubble, but after 2 months the walls have become covered in algae. I was contemplating cleaning the fuge walls, but there's no sign of any algae growth in the tank other than a couple pieces of rock that went in the tank with algae already. Apparently letting the fuge just sit there and go wild is working perfectly for keeping the display spotless. The pods seem to love the tufts of algae on the glass too. You should run by the house one afternoon.

Do you know about how much water volume the fuge holds approximately? Could you add a 5-6" deep sand bed and still have 5-6" of water for macros?

I just have lots of rubble and chaeto in mine. Oh, and pods, tons of pods in there.

Finish adding all your live rock and then wait for your cycle to finish. IMO, you'll wanna wait til Ammonia and Nitrite are reading zero before adding your macro algae to your fuge. If you've got the depth in there, I'd put in 5-6" of sand with the chaeto on top. If it's not deep enough, just run the chaeto bare bottom with maybe some rock rubble in there later.

*The tank is cycling (90gal display) with a Refugium, and sump(with filtersock).
*I've got some LR in the Display, nothing in the refugium, nothing in the sump.
*There are two undersized powerheads stirring the display tank (haven't got the Tunze 6065s up and running yet)

When should I "stock" the refugium? (I was thinking about Chaeto - what else should I put in there? LR? Sand? anything else?)

I've still got to add about 40-50lbs of LR to the display tank..


I've got "rust" that's shown up on the walls of the refugium - I assume it's diatoms due to the fact that I'm just starting the cycle and the fuge has much slower flow than the sump/display...

the fuge that I've got right now (can be removed from the system without changing any plumbing - see pictures on the previous page) holds about 9 gallons, approximately 17"X13"X10"(to the drain)

I'll verify these dims tonight...

the sump holds about 15gal or so...

I think that I've got enough for 5-6" of sand in the fuge, but I had planned on making that area all chaeto, putting 5" of sand in there cuts that back quite a bit (still possible though)

Jon, I plan to get by there one day, my schedule just isn't very flexible lately..

If that's all you have, just go with chaeto, maybe some rubble/rocks on the bottom for pods to hide in. If you can angle the inlet so the chaeto tumbles, that's even better.

that's what I'm thinking... about 2" of rock and the rest chaeto

I've got a little nano 25gal/hr powerhead that I'm going to put in there..

I have had some problems with dursos in the past. I have a 90 gallon and a 65 both have 1 1/4 inch dursos now. Quite, smooth and will handle any amount that you would need to run through the tanks. I followed this from --
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy

Just an opinion though..

Nice build..
Happy Reefing

According to the calculations on reefcentral.com, the required drain size for a 1050 gph pump would be 1.34", giving an area of 1.41". Two 1" drains would have an area of 1.57" (2 x .78"), it would also require an overflow linear surface of 16". Are you sure that it isn't the overflow dimension that would cause the tank to overflow?
Hopefully you already solved the issue, and the setup looks great.

I have had some problems with dursos in the past. I have a 90 gallon and a 65 both have 1 1/4 inch dursos now. Quite, smooth and will handle any amount that you would need to run through the tanks. I followed this from --
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy

Just an opinion though..

Nice build..
Happy Reefing

I should be specific. They do not function well with a 1 inch pipe on a 1 inch bulk head. The water level is very unstable in the overflow if they are not built correct. The correct size vent helps allot to, to large is bad, to small is bad!!

Ron what you did is just fine and I am happy to see you installed the wire in carflex everything you did is up to code from what I see in the pictures

Was not trying to knock the build. Looks great! Wiring looks super. Just making an offer of info on the durso's. I was very unhappy with mine until I upgraded to the 1 1/14 in pipe.
Would like to see the system up and running!

I welcome all suggestions!!!! (as long as you understand that i might not do what you suggest.. HAHA)



Thanks on the additional subpanel.. I've been very happy with it so far..

as far as the dursos go.. i'm going to pull the existing drains and replace them with a 1.25 version (the bottom 6" will be 1" and from there up, they will be 1-1/4"). the thought being that the restriction right now has to do with the surface area of the drain and how much is required to get the water to fill up the drains. Because that's what i want.. I want water to spend very little time in the overflow, i want it immediately to head for the sump. (so far, increasing the size of the drain lines from where they come together has worked beautifully.)

I should be specific. They do not function well with a 1 inch pipe on a 1 inch bulk head. The water level is very unstable in the overflow if they are not built correct. The correct size vent helps allot to, to large is bad, to small is bad!!


Here's what I ended up doing.. I was even able to crank up the return flow (by decreasing the return loop back to the sump) the standpipe on the right is 1.25" pvc

Obviously, the modified standpipe/durso is on the right and the original is on the left.

since the limiting factor on the return was how much water can enter the stack at one time, I think I successfully increased the ability of the display to drain (which was my goal)

Here's what I ended up doing.. I was even able to crank up the return flow (by decreasing the return loop back to the sump) the standpipe on the right is 1.25" pvc

Obviously, the modified standpipe/durso is on the right and the original is on the left.

since the limiting factor on the return was how much water can enter the stack at one time, I think I successfully increased the ability of the display to drain (which was my goal)

That looks good. Here is a shot of what I built for mine. The vent at the top is pretty important.
This is how I did my vent. Single overflow on a 90 with about 800gph.
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/photoplog/images/2828/medium/1_IMG_0361.jpg

Heres a shot of the durso its self....
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/photoplog/images/2828/medium/1_IMG_0362.jpg

Heres the return pluming...
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/photoplog/images/2828/medium/1_DSCF0091.jpg

Always willing to help anyone have success in this hobby.

Happy Reefing!

Mike

I was having a microbubble issue... until I realized that they were from my skimmer output (too close to the return section baffle)... Once I moved things around in the sump.. nearly microbubble free....


I also just finished setting up my 55 RODI water holding tank and utility sink in the garage. The RODI is fed from a TEE in the new water line, it has it's own shutoff. There is a float valve in the tank that will shutoff the RODI when it's full (approximately 52 gal) and I've got a loop in the system so that I can add an external stirring pump at a later date (black flex line loop). All in All.. I'm happy with the way things are working right now.

OH YEAH..

I've got the 2ea 250W MH's burning (with 2ea VHO Actinic supplements)...

I'm really surprised how much shimmer there is from those MHs...

everything is done.. (finally).. Here are some pictures of the setup...

Looking good, very well planned out!

When I was trying to decide on the lighting for my system, I was reading up on the pro's and con's of going with a Metal Halide system vs the T-5's. One of the things that I read over and over was how nice the "shimmer effect" was on the halides.

Well I eventually went with a MH configuration, and I am with you... that shimmer effect is really cool! It was one of those things I just had to see to appreciate :thumbs:

Thanks Jeff!!

I've been reading a lot about what people have done that they liked and disliked.. I'm thinking about a new(well different) sump but I'm not sure yet.

I'd like something that is longer so that I can move volume through the sump, but still have time for the micro bubbles to stay out of the return area..

Is your RODI tank plumbed into your display somehow? Just wondering if you could locate your sump remotely... I'm using 150g stock tank in the 180g display I am setting up just for a sump, and a separate 75g reef ready tank as a refugium, all located behind the wall from the display tank in the unfinished portion of my basement.

unfortunately I don't have a watersource close enough to plumb my RODI into the display... I'd love to have a remote sump setup somewhere in a dark hole. I just don't have any options that my wife would live with...



I put another 35# of LR in the display today so I think that's just about all I am going to need.

I have the other 35# of LR in the display now...

unfortunately I don't have a watersource close enough to plumb my RODI into the display... I'd love to have a remote sump setup somewhere in a dark hole. I just don't have any options that my wife would live with...



I put another 35# of LR in the display today so I think that's just about all I am going to need.


Yep, I have the same problem... my display is upstairs and there just was not a sink or water source close enough to setup my RO/DI. I am having to live with the RO/DI in the garage and use a 20 gallon holding tank to store the water... that makes for a lot of trips up and down the stairs when it comes to water changes :)

:D go bigger.... that's why I picked up the 55gal tank... :D





seriously.. I know that people can't always afford the room, but when doing the research, there are lots of vertical tanks out there with built in bases that can handle 40+ gallons and have a relatively small footprint..

my tank was from snyder industries.. (northern tool & Equip can order anything you need from them)

The tank finished cycling over 7 weeks ago and I moved the inhabitants over a little over a month ago. I lost a "new" Bar Gobi - he just disappeared.. I think he was visible in the tank for about 4 hours.. I'm sure there is a little skeleton in there somewhere.. oh well.. the hermits have to eat something.


Here are some updated pictures of the tank...

I'll add a couple FTS in a bit...

I love the sun coral... that first pic is awesome with the blue background and the yellow polyp coming out! Very nice looking coral :thumbs:

Jeff, Thanks.. that's my wife's favorite thing in the tank. (that's how you keep your spouse involved, you buy the things that she loves)... hell, she even feeds the darn thing (i'm sure it's just so it will come out and say hello..


I've got to get a better camera, I'll borrow my brothers DSLR and see what we can come up with then..

more updates.. I was going for the POM contest, but forgot the cutoff date so i missed it..

Sun coral picture is amazing!

I like the progress!!! I have made some major changes to my 90. All is doing well at this point. I like the pictures. Good job man!!!

It seems that we have very similar lighting as well

:)

Thanks y'all..

I was busy modifying the sump this weekend, I added a filter sock attachment at the inlet and when I get my new skimmer, I'll modify the sump and change everything around "down under" so that I can utilize my new Reeflo Snapper :)

some new additions that will require a touch of re-organization in the base cabinet.... [/excited]

http://i48.tinypic.com/vhyp20.jpg

Well.. this one is going to be pretty self explanatory.. I'll post the pictures, they tell the story..

I didn't know you could only upload 8 files per post..

(continued)


the new sump and higher capacity chiller feed lines add quite a bit of water to the system (about 10gal-12gal). I'll have to rework the return line to add the UV, but that will be a project for another weekend.. (maybe I can upgrade UV while I'm at it..)

Still drooling! That is one sexy sump. Thanks for keeping us posted

nice upgrade! sweet!

thank y'all.. I forgot to mention in there that I also upgraded the return pump...


from a BLHD-40X
to
Reeflo Snapper..


the setup now draws at least 2 amps less than it did with the old configuration..

super nice upgrade

:up:

thanks!!

I'm excited to have it..

it's skimming great but I think I'm gonna add the 2nd injector to the supply... (ran out of 1" flex last time)..

I've also got to look at a waste collector.. space under there is getting precious.. I'll have to figure some stuff out..

Update from last...


I've added the waste collector... a 2L coke bottle :-) working like a charm...


Here are some pictures of both the 90 and the 30...
... and the inhabitants ...

Your Golden Head looks like it purposely snuck into the picture.
Looks great!

Your Golden Head looks like it purposely snuck into the picture.
Looks great!
... and smiled!



thank you.. I've since re-arranged everything.. giving a rear channel for the fish to travel "out front" or "along the back"... it' also gave some shading for my sunpolyp.. I'll post a picture soon of the new work..

soon enough?

hahah Sun polyp cave!
I bet the fish appreciate the new nooks and crannies. I know mine loved going along the back and through the caves I had set up for them!

yes, they do... it's a double edged sword.. they're happier with the hiding places, but use them so you don't get to see them all the time..

a couple cool pictures I took of the tank...

(first one was intended to be submitted to the POTM contest, but I missed the deadline due to work/distractions)

great shots! That first one was a winner, too!

thanks!

:up:

new GFO reactor just arrived...

Edit: installed in 12 minutes.. as easy as this was and given the relatively small amount of space it took up.. everyone should do this..

P2190215.JPG (http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29081&stc=1&d=1298132501)

BEFORE

P2190217.jpg (http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29082&stc=1&d=1298132501)

mount the upper housing

P2190220.JPG (http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29083&stc=1&d=1298132501)
P2190218.JPG (http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29084&stc=1&d=1298132501)

previously installed "tee" with ball valve on my return to feed future GFO Reactor and Calcium Reactor (plug)

P2190223.JPG (http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29085&stc=1&d=1298132501)

Route feed line above and out of the way

P2190224.jpg (http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29086&stc=1&d=1298132501)

fill inner canister with GFO and attach lower housing to the reactor, add out feed line with metering valve

P2190225.JPG (http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29087&stc=1&d=1298132501)

Done.. Ready to turn on.... after running approximately 2 gallons through the reactor and into a waste bucket, I inserted the out feed hose into the sump. everything shown came with the reactor (except the PVC assembly w/ threaded john guest fittings shown in picture 4 above)






now.. how to clean up the other side... :unsure:
P2190227.JPG (http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29088&stc=1&d=1298132501)

it's the GRAY pan in the pictures.. the tan colored mat is a vibration dampener..


http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25565&d=1280116688

http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=25567&d=1280116715
Holy bio-filtration batman. That install looks like a pro! Nice work, despite your leak you got back on the horse with a plan! :yay:

Edit: Wait, is your skimmer filtered back through the sock?

THANKS RJR...

Incidentally, anyone thinking about doing this - IT WORKS...
my return pump had a seal go out in it AND when I re-plumbed everything a couple weeks ago I overtorqued my skimmer outlet..
LONG STORY SHORT - I had 1/4" of water in the bottom of my stand lastnight when I got home from work..

due to the shower pan... no harm, no foul..cleaned it up lastnight in 2 minutes with a towel..
addressing the leaks tonight..

I had a couple leaks that I was dealing with since I added the GFO reactor, one at the skimmer because I hastened my repair and cut corners, the other was at the pump (seal went out so it had to be replaced).

Here are some pictures of the seal replacement:
Once the pump was removed (took 5 minutes), You can see the motor shaft with the volute housing (and the salt creep on the dry side of the housing (dead giveaway that the seal needs to be replaced)

The volute was disassembled and the propeller was removed, then
I gently tapped out the seals and replaced with new (forgot to use silicone on the dry seal the first time so I got to re-do it)

Then everything was put back together and the pump was re-installed.



I also repaired my "bad fix" on the MR2 Skimmer, by chipping away the weld-on 16 that wasn't fully cured (yellow from contact with water) and used a screwdriver/mallet/scratch awl to completely remove the old weld-on. finally, I cleaned everything with alcohol and welded it back together (letting it sit 24 hours this time before re-installing it)

forgot these pictures...

I love that organization that you have under your tank. I wish I was that good with plumbing! Great job!

Thanks.. it's only because I've had a couple "do overs"...

well.. THAT and because space is such a commodity under there I've had to re-do things so that I can fit something else under there.. like the area between my skimmer and my sump.. that's where my Ca reactor will go.. my collection cup currently is a coca cola bottle and it site right in the foreground between the skimmer and the pump..
and my refugium will sit directly on top of the sump on the right side.. (return area)

MRC is working on that part now...



I've gotta figure out where to put:
*additional reactor - carbon/BioPellets/or other..
*another EB-8 that I've made a commitment on..
*ATO reservoir

..not to mention when I start to upgrade stuff (like UV Sterilizer, Chiller, etc)

now, I've got to figure out how to add another tank to my system...

Picked this baby up from Bud yesterday... (measured my office... it'll never fit "as is" so I'll be getting some furniture out of there very soon..)

I've seen a couple of these retrofits (including one highlighted in Reef Hobbyist Magazine a couple issues ago that retrofitted a Biocube Hood).


I thought I'd post mine as well:

I had a Nova Extreme 4 bulb T5 Fixture that I couldn't get a ballast replacement to work in (still not sure why) so I thought that I would use it...


I took the fixture and gutted everything out of it (except the cooling fan because it was a stand alone setup with its own cord, you can never really have too much cooling on a light fixture IMO)

After taking out the "innards" I used the screws/washers that were holding the old equipment in to secure the new Panoramas. Worked perfectly and after a single zip tie to hold the cords, I was pretty much done. It took less time to put the new fixtures in than it did to remove the previous T5 equipment.

if you look in the tank shot, you'll see two rectangles on the left side, that's where the switches were, I'll probably cut the lines on the panoramas another day and set them up through the switches (removed and saved)

It was pretty simple.. The color is good, but I think I'd still like to add more to it (another panorama fixture or possibly a stunner since it's protected by the sliding lens)

I miss not having the LED nightlights, so I'll probably end up adding one later..

http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29585&d=1300027212
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29586&d=1300027242
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29587&d=1300027268
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29588&d=1300027281

Ron, just a side note be wear of those oceanics. Ive had two crack on me in the past...but everythings looking good.

Ron, just a side note be wear of those oceanics. Ive had two crack on me in the past...but everythings looking good.

where did your cracks develop?

thanks for the heads-up...


I'm planning on resealing the tank.. so I'll inspect everything then..

bulkhead area...

I'll grind them "smooth" so as to remove any possible burrs or spalling....

I picked up my new Refugium from MRC today.

I've got to get it loaded up with some macroalgae real quick like..

I'll post a picture of it sitting under the tank later tonight.

Here are a couple shots of the tank first one is in October 2010

the next three are today.

Edit:

Here are a couple of the refugium that MRC created for me. It sits directly on top of the return section of their sump. the routed weir at the top is an overflow control device and the 1/2" wing walls on the sides will keep any overflow directed into the sump below (it's an open top design in that location..

adds about another 7 gallons to the system

The refugium is fed from a tee in the right drain line, and in turn, surface skims back down into the sump.

now.. where did I put that ball of chaeto... ?!?!

Looking good Ron....That cap is huge and I love the Lobos

Thanks..
I got the Monti from JAustin last summer..

Looks good, Ron!

I don't think you have enough MRC equipment under the tank. Looks good though.

I don't think you have enough MRC equipment under the tank. Looks good though.

you're right.. probably need to look into a custom collection cup also (space is tight) to get rid of that coke bottle..

I've got 4 more ECOXOTIC Panorama fixtures coming (I'll see how they look on the 30, and sell however many I wont need)

oh..

and I added a RBTA tonight... picked her up from Mike & Robin at Marine Designs.. (they've got a couple more still...)

http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29789&d=1301108154

love that sump! The fuge is too cool!

OK... this weekend I actually had some time to get things rolling in the right direction.

first and foremost.. I LOVE this APEX Controller.... I've had it for over a year and I was using it for the basic stuff: Lights/Heater/Chiller/etc... until recently..

This weekend I set up a couple convenience things:

*Refugium Light - mine doubles as the light for my base cabinet - I set it up using one of the float switch circuits that were added when I built my breakout box (http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=55370&highlight=Apex). It went together just like a float switch, but instead of a float switch, I used a wired door bell button. After modifying my programming for the fuge light, it was done. Now, when I push the doorbell mounted just inside the door, my fuge light will come on for 2 mins (if it's not on already, of course).

*Feed-D - Using this feeding cycle, I set it up to facilitate my water changes. Push a button and the Chiller/Return Pump/Heater/MH Lights/ATO all turn off, and my fuge light turns on (again, if it's not already on). These items stay on for 1 hour, then switch back to "normal"

*ATO - This one was pretty easy too, I just set up the float switches just as you normally would, only I set it up so that the switch has to be open for at least 30 mins before the ATO will turn on (to prevent the Aqualifter from cycling on/off in rapid succession due to turbulent water in the return section..)

The more I read/learn about this controller, the more I realize that it is TRULY able to handle just about any situation. Im sure that most controllers can be set up to handle these same situations. but programming the Apex is pretty simple once you know the available commands..

hands down.. the best investment for my tank...

conductivity module just arrived.. we'll see how that works with everything else...

I started the silicone removal a week ago and never got around to finishing it..

Tonight I finished removing/cleaning up the tank and got it ready for the silicone..

it's a pretty straight forward process, it just takes patience and A LOT of paper towels to keep the caulk tool clean.. (never got any on my fingers)

I'd like to thank Jon Burgess..

I picked up his "centerpiece" that he had for sale due to the breakdown of his tank.

Here are a couple pictures... needless to say.. my coral purchases are pretty much done for the forseeable future...

the piece added was the center 14"X10" section of my current display... at least 8 different colonies on that rock!!!

Looks good bro you've got alot going on in that sump

a lot ... like too much?


Thanks.. I've but a lot of thought into how I wanted to add the pieces of equipment that are in there...

no not too much just, you should be a professional packer or something lol. Looks really good man

Man Ron you were right. You fit my centerpiece in there and it looks like it's been there the whole time. Wish I could aquascape like that:D Thanks again for taking it......I know it's in a good (and local) home now:lol2:

You got room in there! Lol! Looking great!

A couple people asked about my ATO.. here it is attached to the sump.. a TUNZE Osmolator magnet (you can order the part separately from tunze) and some float switches.. the float switches attach to my breakout box.. and the apex monitors them, turning on an aqualifter when the bottom float "opens"...

Aquaria :: RBTAHostsCLOWNS03.mp4 video by rredding - Photobucket

Lol the Glass makes it look like 4 clowns! Congrats tho on the GBTA hosting the clowns

:D thanks, i've had a BALL watching them tonight.. they take turns since the Rose is so small right now..

Aquaria :: RBTAHostsCLOWNS03.mp4 video by rredding - Photobucket (http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k130/rredding/Aquaria/?action=view&current=RBTAHostsCLOWNS03.mp4)

I LOVE IT!! My snowflakes fought to hose my RBTA for about a week and then they just stopped altogether! :sad: I'm so sad, I love watching them host the nems. One of the coolest things IMO.

FTS - This morning..

Ron i want to see the 30l! Great pictures tho!

Ron i want to see the 30l! Great pictures tho!

not posting another pic of that one till I get its replacement up....

soon, though.. (maybe)

pictures...

will be up for sale soon... !

most everything is gone now.. :-(
I'll be back when I dont have 2 children under 5

Sad to see you go bud!

Always miss the Dry humor!

Stay in touch on here