I Would really like to know what types of Heaters everyone are using.

I've always been sort of Partial to the Marineland Visi-Therm Stealth Heaters.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa15/Lukestimp/Heaters/StealthHeater.jpg

Is anyone using one of these? They are a Bit Pricey but seem very High Tech.
Fluval E Series Heater.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa15/Lukestimp/Heaters/FluvalESeriesHeater.jpg

Finnex Titanium (http://www.aquacave.com/finnex-200w-heater-withbr-electronic-controller-1919.html).

http://www.aquacave.com/finnex-200w-heater-withbr-electronic-controller-1919.html

One thing to remember is that you CANNOT go by what the box says about what size aquarium that the heater is for. You have to look at the watts if it says that it's for a 70 gal tank and it is a 300-watt heater that heater is to big for a 70 gallon. That heater would be more suited for a 150ish-gallon tank. The reason that it is to big is that if and when it does go haywire it will cook your tank faster than if you had went with a smaller heater. Thus you will have more time to realize what is happing to your heater. Thats why on my tanks I use under rated heaters. And I use a good quality heater like a Jaguar. I have a 100-watt heater on my 55-gal. Which is just enough to keep it in the temperature range of 75-83f. It just annoys me that SOME people that work at petstores don't know any thing about what they are doing, we have a customer who was told to buy a 300-watt heater for his 30 gal...
Chris c

I have two Finnex 200w heaters for my 90g with 30g sump. These are controlled by an AquaController Jr.

Don't put all your eggs in one basket with one heater... they do fail!

I stopped carrying Stealth heaters - too many problems especially stray voltage. Last one I pulled was casting 94 volts and I have the damaged yellow tang from the tank in my coral system now - he has no more fins. HLLE that could only have come from voltage - varied diet and great water quality (the other two suspected causes of HLLE).

I haven't tried Finnex titanium but I stopped carrying titanium heaters too (Won and Pacific Coast) - they are probably all made in the same factory/different labels. Heaters stuck on, probes fail etc.

I've been using Aqueon glass heaters for a couple of years now - the occasional one has a problem but less than the other brands. IMO any/all heaters should be replaced every few years.

I used Ebo Jager heaters for years too with few problems.

Jenn

ebojager has not treated me wrong.

but they are all on my AC anyway, and they have their own thermostats set 1degree over that too... and the chiller is on a ranco... it would take the perfect storm to throw my temp outof wack. just the way it should be :)

A controller won't stop stray voltrage... just FYI.

Have had pretty bad experiences with 2 hydor theo heaters.
First one wiped out the tank when it stuck on. Can't knock a company for one bad product experience so I got another and caught it doing the same. I would listen to Jenn and stick with the glass heaters and even the old school glass aquarium thermometers

I've heard a few bad reports of Theo heaters - but have not used/carried them myself.

IMO ANY heater can fail - it's the "weak link" in any system. Like I said - they should be monitored carefully and replaced every few years as a precaution. Even new ones can fail but often we see them get cracked etc. and still "work" ... I used to like the Stealth because it eliminated the glass/crack factor but I've seen a few overheat and bubble/blister up, cast voltage (even if it appears intact and keeping temp properly).

I don't think there's a truly "great" brand of heater but there are definitely some that seem to have more problems than others.

Jenn

If you have GFI in place it should trip if voltage leaking from stealth heaters, I'm pretty sure. Had the voltage problem on fuge with a strip light I used to use that was not intended for salt, even after I modified the light. I grounded the fuge which eliminated getting shocked and it did not trip GFI. No longer using the strip light on the sump/fuge, figured I was just asking for trouble. Have heard about some stealth problems from other source and have not expeienced any personally. So far mine hasn't skipped a beat, had it 5 months.

I bought several Jaeger heaters right after Ebo-Jaeger was purchased by Eheim, and Eheim redesigned the line and renamed them Jaeger, and I had 4 of 8 fail. This may have been a batch problem, or early production issues.

I use a Ranco controller hooked to a 500 watt titanium heating element. Most folks use a Ranco hooked to a standard heater with the heater thermostat set just above the Ranco setpoint as a failsafe in case the Ranco fails.

This morning I overhauled a 180-gallon tank that I'd previously found voltage in. When we got into the sump there was a stealth heater... my service tech reported that the tank was running warm on Friday, it was 84 then. This morning with room temp set at 70, the tank was running at 82. When I put my hand on the stealth (still in the sump) I got a shock. I unplugged it, and removed it from the sump. It was STEAMING. It shouldn't have even been on.

I think I solved the voltage problem and the heating issue in one go.

Jenn

I've got my 72 grounded to eliminate most of the voltage type leakage. Saltwater and electricity are NOT friends. Use a GFI and a grounding probe and that should at least eliminate you getting a shock. Won't help faulty equipment. I'm working on a overtemp safety shutoff for aquarium heaters. Should be much cheaper than a controller. Preset to a given temp, maybe 85, if temp gets that hi it shuts down heater. Indicator light goes on telling you heater has malfunctioned and must be reset to turn back on. Electrical Not electronic, there is a big difference. Just in design stages will protype shortly and let you all know if the idea works in actuality and what the cost is. Hey, it works fantastic on paper LOL

Does anyone have an opinion on the Fluval E Series heater?

Phil :unsure:

Does anyone have an opinion on the Fluval E Series heater?

Phil :unsure:

Yes i had it on a african cichlid tank back in houston and its not very reliable. The lcd looks fancy and high tech but it would get errors every couple of days that required it to be unplugged and reset until it functioned normaly. I now have the marineland stealth heater and its not as fancy but gets the job done. sometimes simplicity is best.

on the 90 I've got a Won Brothers Titanium Heating element that is controlled by my Apex...

http://akamai.f3images.com/IMD/250/WB1351/WB1351_1.jpg


ON the 30, I've got a Visitherm Stealth

http://akamai.edeal.com//images/catalog3684/folder24579/img7988615.jpg


I've got a THEO that I use when I'm making SW..

I still use Stealth heaters and Visa Therm (stealth without the plastic case pretty much). I do kep an eye on the heaters but to date have not had problems. I use them in 3 different tanks, all in sumps. My tanks are all grounded and i have my hands in them at least once a day and am bare-footed. If there is a voltage leakage I will definitely feel it. Check with meter if I get bit not pleasant but pretty reliable test. lol

Is anyone using one of these? They are a Bit Pricey but seem very High Tech.
Fluval E Series Heater.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa15/Lukestimp/Heaters/FluvalESeriesHeater.jpg[/quote]



Anyone tried these?

I don't know if that is a good brand, but doesn't it seem that Hagen is really good at complicating even the most simple aquarium equipment, like heaters or filters? My Gawd, have you seen that new G series they have out. Thing looks like a computer. Give me an Eheim 2217 Classic anytime. I have a 2213 that I have used for 15 years so far.
Dave

a grounding probe should atleast negate a voltage leak, though still a serious concern of course. cooking a tank is a far more urgent situation IMO, and a controller can and will offer significant protection from that atleast.

replacing heaters periodicly presumes that the heaters fail from use/time, and Im not certain that is true. though it may be, it may not be, you could replace a heater that will never fail with a new one that will fail in 2 weeks. or you might replace one that will fail tomorrow... but you dont know that, other than to spend the bucks and hope you've improved your situation...

this is the heater i use. at this point im very happy with the results after a yrs service.

this is the heater i use. at this point im very happy with the results after a yrs service.

http://www.marinedepot.com/Aquarium_Pharmaceuticals_RENA_SmartHeater_Inline_S pecialty_Heaters-Aquarium_Pharmaceuticals_API_MARS_Fishcare-AP7151-FIHTIH-vi.html

Using Fluval E 200W. Loving it. It can be obtained MUCH cheaper than petsmart sells it for. I think we got ours for $45 or so. I really love everything about this heater except you never know when the element is actually on. It has been good to us so far.

Is anyone using one of these? They are a Bit Pricey but seem very High Tech.
Fluval E Series Heater.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa15/Lukestimp/Heaters/FluvalESeriesHeater.jpg



Anyone tried these?
[/QUOTE]

I've heard good things about the Rena. Never used one but haven't seen negatives. Stealths have the same drawback as Fuval, no indicator for when the element is on.

I've heard good things about the Rena. Never used one but haven't seen negatives. Stealths have the same drawback as Fuval, no indicator for when the element is on.

I've got a small (single Christmas) light that is wired in series between my controller and my Ti heating element so when the controller has the circuit hot (and the heater is on) the light is also on...

http://www.jehmco.com/html/temperature_controller.html
Use this with a titanium heater and keep the top 2 inches of the heater out of the water! pricey but worth it.

therena is very nice indeed.

I've been using the stealth heaters for a few years now. I have about 6 of them and have never gotten shocked or had an issue. Am I doing something wrong? LOL

that thing looks HUGE in the picture.
http://www.marinedepot.com/Aquarium_Pharmaceuticals_RENA_SmartHeater_Inline_S pecialty_Heaters-Aquarium_Pharmaceuticals_API_MARS_Fishcare-AP7151-FIHTIH-vi.html

hard to get a scale without anything for reference, looks fairly small though, I suspect its a 50w model or something in the photo. check out some 300-500w jobs, look like something from a very wrong adult film...

I use a 250w Eheim Jager now

that thing looks HUGE in the picture.



that's what she said!


They are actually quite compact, good heaters.

I believe the 50W is about 8" up to the 300W which is about 10" long...

Temperature controllers are cool. They give you a good safety factor. I started working on some cheaper circuits to do this but haven't had time to complete designs. If and when I come up with something I will post for everyone.

:eek:HAHA!
that's what she said!


They are actually quite compact, good heaters.

I used almost all of them from the most expensive elctronic solid state ones to the cheap ones that come with the Wal-mart set ups. I don't trust any of them. My visitherm worked for years before some how "sticking" while I was on vacation. When I returned, my only option was to add lemon and butter.

I used almost all of them from the most expensive elctronic solid state ones to the cheap ones that come with the Wal-mart set ups. I don't trust any of them. My visitherm worked for years before some how "sticking" while I was on vacation. When I returned, my only option was to add lemon and butter.

You shouldnt run any heater and rely on the thermostat built in. A Ranco controller or other trust worthy controller is an essential investment IMO.

+1

2x250w Stealths run off of a Reefkeeper. No issues, and I do check for voltage from time to time.

After trials with a few heaters, I'm pretty satisfied with Ebo Jaeger. :up:

I have a hydor theo that only about 4 months old....and only "sticks" at night after lights out.....temp is at 79.8 when light go off....then about an hour and a half later it's at 83.4......so I ordered the fennix digital today and hopefully that will last a little longer than this POS....

I have a hydor theo that only about 4 months old....and only "sticks" at night after lights out.....temp is at 79.8 when light go off....then about an hour and a half later it's at 83.4......so I ordered the fennix digital today and hopefully that will last a little longer than this POS....

I think Hydor recalled their Theos for that reason. See below.

http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=39469

ah thanks Dave.....yeah i remember that post from a while back but couldnt find it.....yeah i emailed them today with my dilemma....my heater is a 200w and also a different batch number......but still having the same issue....so i guess ill wait to see what theyll do.....either way... my fennix's are on the way

Finnex Titanium (http://www.aquacave.com/finnex-200w-heater-withbr-electronic-controller-1919.html).

http://www.aquacave.com/finnex-200w-heater-withbr-electronic-controller-1919.html

Anyone else have comments on this one? My heater location is in my sump and hard to access. I like the idea of having the control outside and the smaller size would work well for me too (I only have about 14" of space).