View Full Version : no polyps?


1mbrews8
01-04-2009, 11:05 PM
here is when i got it
http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/3102/karate047ls4.jpg
and now
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/6351/fish129bh1.jpg
i think a diff pic
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/695/jinprobjo9.jpg
the other sps polyps look fine. not crazy bushy though...what can i do to make it better? tank param are fine. the only thing i don't test is mag. i have finally started using rodi (i know, i know) about a month ago and have about 3-4 wc of 18-20 gal, for my 150g tank so far. the rest was treated tap. it is lit by 4 actinic and 4 10000k t5 lights, drivin by 2 ic 660s. 3 koralia 4s are the ph. this is a full tank shot if it helps an idea of flow, etc.
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/7447/fish137yx9.jpg
this sps (i think a large branch birds nest) is located almost directly under the center of the hob overflow in the pic. (it is not underneath it really :o)) thanks for looking and lmk what u think
mike

1mbrews8
01-04-2009, 11:06 PM
oh, it has been moved around since the orig. pic, but the polyp dissapearence had allready taken place..

Ralph ATL
01-04-2009, 11:13 PM
Can you post all current test kit results? Filtration? Additives?

Kirru
01-04-2009, 11:23 PM
the pink birds nest i got from jwilis27 did that for a couple of days then opened up really. Mine is under two PCs. its about 6" from the lights, that along with my others are growing great. can't wait to see them under the new T5 i am getting. i'd just give it time if it were me. how long have you had it in there? i'm no expert so i may be wrong.

1mbrews8
01-04-2009, 11:33 PM
well i got a starry night that looks bad from him but it still has color. i am waiting to see if it turns around. i have my fingers crossed. the birdsnest here is from jin so i know any thing wrong with it is my fault:o)
my params are:
salt 1.025
amm 0
ph 8.4
nitrite 0
nitrate 0
ca 470
kh 12
phos .5
alk 4.25
this was after my 3rd wc with the rodi. about a week ago. birdsnest has been in there about3-4 weeks. thanks
mike

1mbrews8
01-05-2009, 8:06 AM
additives are amino acids once a couple days, ca, prime, ph buffer, conditioner, stronium, and tiny bit of iodine when water changing...
filtration is the hob overflow (900gph) going to a 20g sump with skimmer and a mag 18 (turned down) return, split to come out each end of the tank. 3 koralia 4s - one one either side, and one in the middle. thanks
mike

1mbrews8
01-05-2009, 10:11 PM
should i move it away from flow, light, etc? it kinda looks like this one from a vendor http://www.extremecoralsplus.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EC&Product_Code=bird_1-05-29&Category_Code=New
is that normal??
mike

Kirru
01-05-2009, 10:16 PM
that to me looks a little bleached.
how strong of a lighting did it come from(if you know) and what is your lighting? I'd move out of a strong current. mine doesn't like it, if you have a stronger lighting then maybe start at the bottom of the tank and move it slowly to your desired placement over a month or so. at least that is what I have read so if someone else could chime in and help that would be great or confirm my statement

FutureInterest
01-05-2009, 10:41 PM
He's still hanging in there. He was in high par area of around 450 in my tank although there is a lil bit of transition time needed for some corals when they go from t5 to halides as the spectrums can be different.

I think it'll be just fine if you leave it there but to be safe you should lower it and then move it up after its polyps extend.

1mbrews8
01-05-2009, 11:07 PM
i have t5s?? i have 4 actinic and 4 10000k 48" ho t5s overdriven on the ic 660s...i'l try moving it to the bottom and see if that helps. thanks
mike


He's still hanging in there. He was in high par area of around 450 in my tank although there is a lil bit of transition time needed for some corals when they go from t5 to halides as the spectrums can be different.

I think it'll be just fine if you leave it there but to be safe you should lower it and then move it up after its polyps extend.

Amici
01-05-2009, 11:13 PM
I always suggest people start every coral on the sand bed and slowly move it up. I have never seen RTN from to little light, corals only bleach and slowly die.

FutureInterest
01-05-2009, 11:33 PM
Hmmm sounds similar to my lighting. :)

Yours might be higher par than mine at this point as my bulbs are kinda old and the reflectors are dirty as could be. Dunno though but its not dead, just not happy. Try lowering it if the condition doesn't continue in short order. It is very hardy though and that thick branch version is uncommon.

1mbrews8
01-06-2009, 10:53 AM
i just read the other coral bleaching thread...is my alk too low?

theplatypus
01-06-2009, 11:07 AM
Are you testing for any of the stuff you're adding to your tank? Strontium is a trace element and is meant to stay that way. If you keep up with water changes there is really no need to dose trace elements.

Prime- Not sure why you're dosing this
Conditioner- Need a little more to go on
Strontium- Trace element
Iodine- Toxic at elevated levels

ares
01-06-2009, 11:21 AM
yep, Id lay off the dosing for a bit. if your not testing for it, dont dose it.

if ammonia is an issue and your dosing prime for is, probably dont want to add any more anything till thats naturally gone.

prime is a conditioner I think unless your talking about something else, but you have RO/DI now, no need for it on this front either, chlorines are gone with the RO/DI.

1mbrews8
01-06-2009, 11:31 AM
yeah, i am not really using prime anymore since switching to rodi. the conditioner is API stress coat for after wc. stronium is a couple drops at wc. iodine the same every other wc. i put it on the bottom but my maroon clown keeps pushing it over....what about carbon? should i put some in the sump?
mike

ares
01-06-2009, 12:27 PM
could run carbon, wont hurt anything. without really knowing what the problem is though... cant say it will help lol.