Who is running them? How do you like it? How quick did you notice, or have you even noticed any difference? I've been tossing this idea back and forth about putting one on my tank. I have an old corallife skimmer that would make great for a DIY.

couldn't live without it!

I use 2, two little fishes in series with a small cheap rio pump. I have 1 with Black Diamond Carbon & the other with Warner HC. I put about 5-10 tablespoons in each & change them out anywhere from 2 to 4 weeks.

I run PhosGuard in a TLF reactor. I've also got a homemade reactor of sorts running either carbon or chemipure---I'm going to replace it with another TLF reactor soon.

I used to have a bit of a hair algae, but it's gone. I can't even grow Cheato today.

Phosphates have always tested at zero so I can't say for sure it's the Phosguard. But I'm not taking it out!

awesome, good to know. I'm wondering if its worth it to try to convert that old skimmer or just buy one of the TLF reactors? Raj, do you have any of those left that you were selling a few weeks ago? Hook it up!

SWC has some reactors.

Whats a GFO Reactor? AND WHAT IS IT USED FOR...

Gfo

doh! Just kidding!

HAHAHAHAHAH! Granulated ferric oxide reactor (I think thats what it stands for) Also called phosban reactor. Used to help keep phosphates down. Some people swear by them, some swear at them.

I am on my phone, so don't count off for spelling. Granulated Ferric Oxide is an iron based phosphate remover like Rowaphos, phosban, warner, etc. The reactor helps keep it from clumping, so it remains viable longer.

Phosban reactor thats what I was thinking but never heard it called a GFO. Been interested in getting one myself but Im running out of room. Mostly now that I have a calcium reactor and Co2 under the cabnet.

I just added 180g of Phosban (thanks Jeremy!) to a reactor and added to my system. Unfortunatley, I don't have a phosphate meter (yet), so it's going to be hard for me to test.

According to the directions, I need 360g (for 360g actual water volume), so I'll let this run for a week or two and then add the remainder.

If u are are just starting GFO for the first time, you need to start with a VERY SMALL amount, so your corals will adjust to the low levels of phates!!! That is waaaaaay too much to begin with, IMHO!! Maybe a tenth of that to start.

I've done a fair amount of reading up - it's not the phosphate drop that causes the problem, but the Alkalinity and pH drop that's critical. I did a 86% water change last week (yes, eighty-six- I drained everything, including the main tank to ~40%), so my phosphates aren't out of control or anything at the moment.

I'll be keeping an eye on the Alk and pH hourly.

I just added 180g of Phosban (thanks Jeremy!) to a reactor and added to my system. Unfortunatley, I don't have a phosphate meter (yet), so it's going to be hard for me to test.

According to the directions, I need 360g (for 360g actual water volume), so I'll let this run for a week or two and then add the remainder.

WOW! 360 gallons of media- thats one hell of a reactor!!

Lee, If you need a TLF reactor, I think I have one for a pretty good price- for you, this week only, it's buy none, get one free!

WOW! 360 gallons of media- thats one hell of a reactor!!

You should have seen the price! :)

I think that's the first time I've used gallons (gal) and grams (g) in the same sentence....

lee, I run two little fish reactors. Carbon in one, and gfo in the other. I love these things. even if they arent the best, they are extremly efficient. heck, even if you dont wanna run gfo, its a great way to run carbon. Personally I use a MJ400 and it pushes GFO>Carbon>uvsterilizer.

Lee, If you need a TLF reactor, I think I have one for a pretty good price- for you, this week only, it's buy none, get one free!

You rock Jeremy....yeah I'll pick that up from you.

I've been testing hourly since I added it, and my Alkalinity has stayed right at 10.7 dKH and my pH has gone from 8.15 to 8.17, which is acceptable.

I do have a question, though - does anyone know the optimal flow rate for GFO? I'm also using a TLF reactor, with a maxijet 900, dialed down with the included valve.

I've done a fair amount of reading up - it's not the phosphate drop that causes the problem, but the Alkalinity and pH drop that's critical. I did a 86% water change last week (yes, eighty-six- I drained everything, including the main tank to ~40%), so my phosphates aren't out of control or anything at the moment.

I'll be keeping an eye on the Alk and pH hourly.



I have heard that you need to watch your Alk & PH, however, I have seen what happens when phosphates are lowered too quick. IMO.

I've been testing hourly since I added it, and my Alkalinity has stayed right at 10.7 dKH and my pH has gone from 8.15 to 8.17, which is acceptable.

I do have a question, though - does anyone know the optimal flow rate for GFO? I'm also using a TLF reactor, with a maxijet 900, dialed down with the included valve.

chris...the suggested flow rate for gfo is around
" 70gal/hr=265L/hr for 130grams of Phosban"
" 80gal/hr=300L/hr for 200grams of Phosban"
hope this helps

I have heard that you need to watch your Alk & PH, however, I have seen what happens when phosphates are lowered too quick. IMO.

Understood. I may take the reactor offline overnight to help ease down what phosphates may be in the water.

chris...the suggested flow rate for gfo is around
" 70gal/hr=265L/hr for 130grams of Phosban"
" 80gal/hr=300L/hr for 200grams of Phosban"
hope this helps

Woah- that's pretty fast.. I was afraid I'd destroy the pellets at that rate. 80gal/hr comes to 84 milliliters per second. Right now, I'm at around 100mL per minute... Maybe I should just keep up the current rate and boost it up over the next day or two, again to ease the phosban into the routine...

Woah- that's pretty fast.. I was afraid I'd destroy the pellets at that rate. 80gal/hr comes to 84 milliliters per second. Right now, I'm at around 100mL per minute... Maybe I should just keep up the current rate and boost it up over the next day or two, again to ease the phosban into the routine...
chris, I kinda agree, thats just the manufactuer suggestion. I personally only use enough flow to get the top 1/8" of the gfo bubbling.

as previously stated, the top 1/8" should look like it is "about to boil" or "about to perk". Anything more tends to pulverize the GFO, and the powder winds up in your tank.

The other thing I was wondering about... Once the phosphates in your tank are bottomed out, is there harm in going over the recommended amount? Ie- If I were to eventually fill up the TLF reactor so that it'd last longer, is there any negatives that would happen as a result?

From what I can tell, once the phosphates are lowered to near 0, having 1 gram or 1 kilogram of media shouldn't make a difference.

As for the powder ending up in the tank, I had a little problem with that when I first started the reactor with GFO. I quickly stuffed a bunch of polyfill (filter floss) in the top to take care of the small stuff.

you can go lower, but not usually by putting more in. You see, when you put more in, it clumps & channels, so it doesn't work that well. It's best to use less amounts and change every 2 weeks, then to use more & screw your tank up. I have been there; done that.

If you eventually want phates lower, use Warner HC &/or you can use 2 reactors. Also, at first, remember that your media will get saturated very quickly as all the phosphates leach from your rock, sand, water, etc.

they also make a larger reactor that you can put more in. you just don't want the media sitting too tall in the reactor.

Is there any way to know that it's saturated without using a phosphate colorimeter?

yes...........DD Merck Phosphate kit. Excellent product. Test the water coming out. Also, your phates will rise in your water. 0.024 or lower. Change when it's 0.024! The kit is expensive, however, it lasts a long time, it's accurate, and you can buy refills instead of whole kits at a better price. There is no point if it's not accurate, ya know?

$63.95 I've found them for. Yeah people over on RC have been saying only the expensive kits can properly test. A quote from a member over there:

"Note: Just because your test kit shows 0 phosphates doesn't mean you DON'T have a phosphate problem. Hobbyist test kits only measure inorganic phosphates, not organic-based phosphates (aka orthophosphates). Test kits that measure these compounds cost upwards of $70 bucks last time I checked."

Dang - $100? Why not just buy a colorimeter?

Although I've never used a color meter, I have "heard" that DD Merck is more accurate. The color meter "allegedly" can be off from time to time. But hey, whatever works for you. Color meter, Merck, & Hach are all about even in results & price. pick one.

or...........you can just change your media every 2 weeks and in 4 months time maybe paid for a kit? or change it monthly and have the same issues as now? I'm not trying to be a smartass, just saying it's best to know;not guess.

I agree 100%. But a test kit that's hard to use means that... it won't get used. I have a strontinum test downstairs that's been used all of once.

If I can keep an eye on things easier with a colorimeter, then that might be better for me, even if it's not exact. It would be interesting to compare a reference sample against a colorimeter unit, though...

I agree 100%. But a test kit that's hard to use means that... it won't get used. I have a strontinum test downstairs that's been used all of once.

If I can keep an eye on things easier with a colorimeter, then that might be better for me, even if it's not exact. It would be interesting to compare a reference sample against a colorimeter unit, though...

hint hint.

Oops- I meant to say "compare a test kit and a colorimeter against a reference sample".

Now if we could only put those three together and test... I can provide the test sample... ;)

bring a sample over here, I'll be happy to test it for ya!

cant all these problems of testing be solved by using a conduitivity test probe?

cant all these problems of testing be solved by using a conduitivity test probe?

nope

I think GFO is a great idea for polishing phosphates. If you have a large amount then skimming wet and wc's may be a better answer. GFO gets used up pretty fast in a high pfate take. I would test then act. After the pfates are controllable then add the gfo to finish them off. Any way just my 2cents. :)

since phosphates is not just in the water column & is bound up in algae, live rock, sand, etc., water changes really will not help with phosphate removal to any degree worth noting (unlike trates). GFO actually has a very high capacity to remove phosphates.