FutureInterest
04-02-2008, 1:49 AM
Introduction
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/JeremyFTS-1.jpg
Thanks first and foremost to Jin and Alex for their efforts. I don’t get visitors often, so it is a pleasure the have them share my little slice with this entire club. This would only be possible through them.
Aquariums have always been a part of my life, from the time I was a child in Buffalo, NY, catching the native sunfish and catfish out of the creek in my backyard. I started with the obligate bowl, and graduated quickly through the 5, 10, 18, 20, 55 gallons.
My first marine aquarium was 37 gallons, and I tried desperately to put 37 fish in there. Needless to say, I had a lot of problems. Lessons learned. Once I got a job at the local fish store of choice, I rather honed my skills, not through only my experience, but also through the customers. I was lucky enough to get a 120 reef ready for dirt cheap, begged my landlord to allow it, and that was the first stab at actual “reefkeeping”. It had a moderate skimmer, VHO lighting, and had “immense” flow, with the mag 7 return pump! My, how we have learned.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/coralsfish1.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/Coralsfish3.jpg
In 2001, I moved to Georgia with my tank, and waited painfully to finally own a house where I could set it up. This happened in September of 2001. In late 2006, I finally decide it was time to “get bigger”, and bought an all glass 210 reef ready. This tank has been set up since then (with much of the original rock and livestock).
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/Coralsfish6.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/Coralsfish4.jpg
I have set this tank up originally as a mixed reef, with SPS, LPS, softies, mushrooms, anemones, etc. But for some odd reason, the challenge of SPS really drew me in. As a result, over the past year, I have more focused on adding SPS to this tank rather than the other “types” of corals, but still do have some of the afore mentioned in the tank. First and foremost, however, this tank is set up to support fish. I love fish. Wait, let me re-phrase- I LOVE FISH! I very carefully walk the fine line between the fish and coral population, but in case of a conflict, the fish almost always win in my mind!
EQUIPMENT
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/YTCTandCoral.jpg
This is a standard All Glass 210 gallon (72” X 24” X 29”) that has the reef ready overflows. I looked into other brands/vendors, but for the price and reputation, I went with All Glass. My sump is a My Reef Creations reef sump. It holds approximately 50 gallons, and has a built in refugium will is likely about 15 gallons. My total volume is probably around 260 gallons or so. It sits on an All Glass black pine stand. Now, here is where it gets fun. I was uneasy with putting this load on the floor of my house. I live in more or less a small log cabin, and, even though it was against the wall, it made me nervous. As I don’t have a basement, I went into the crawl space, poured six concrete footers, and braced the floor joists to be sure the floor wasn’t going anywhere. Sounds fun, huh? All in about 24” of space! The “ghetto” canopy I made myself at work out of scrap firewood (or so I complain). I hate it, and I need to pay someone skilled to make me a nice one.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/WFTang.jpg
My jealousy sets in for many people as I don’t have the room for a separate fish room, basement, or similar. What I wouldn’t give for a basement or “fish room”. The tank sits in my open dining area, and I have done my best to cram everything needed into the cabinet and associated space.
I bought the tank, and it sat in my spare bedroom for about 4 months. I had visions of adding onto the house and making a fish room/in wall setup, alas, was just a pipe dream, as my finances, and impatience took over.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/equip2.jpg
I have always been a strong proponent of My Reef Creations, as their equipment has always proven to me to be the pinnacle of quality. As a result, I run a MRC MR-2 (run by a Mag 18). As this has to fit under my stand, and I wanted to maximize skimming, I run both becketts. I would love to add some extensions, but my space currently doesn’t allow it. I have been seriously contemplating getting a taller skimmer, and just running it adjacent to the tank, but we’ll see what the future holds. Into the skimmer, I have a Red Sea 50 mg/hr ozonizer, running at 50%. I only rarely recharge my air dryer, so I estimate it is only pushing 10 mg/hr into the skimmer. But for those who are willing to “risk” running ozone- you will never believe the difference in water clarity. I sincerely doubt the level we run would have any disinfecting or pathogenic control properties, but the water will be utterly transparent. I have a MRC waste collection container with carbon to collect the skimmate. With my load, I pull out about a liter a day or more. I also run a MRC CR-2 calcium reactor (with spray bar) with CaribSea media. I run about 100ml/min effluent, and about 2 bubbles a second. To counteract the depressed pH from the reactor, I top off through a MRC nilsen reactor. My top off is controlled by a JBJ ATO. The ATO is, in turn controller by my Digital Aquatic RK2. I have it set to pH control, where if the pH get to be above 8.55, it shuts off the ATO, and worst case scenario, I burn out my return pump. The few times I’ve seen this has been just micro bubbles, though. My return pump is another Mag 18. It goes through the stock loc-line returns, but most is controlled by ball valves to go through the WavySeas unit in the tank. I also have two 250 watt Stealth heaters in the sump.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/equip1.jpg
I also run carbon 24/7, and Brightwell Aquatics Phosphate resin for phosphate control, through TLF Phosban reactors.
Another company I am a rabid supporter of is Tunze. I have heard wonderful things about the Vortecs, but reputation and production of Tunze will keep me a customer. I currently run two Tunze Stream 6200s controller by a 7095 controller. I set the controller to Interval 2, 10 minute interval, and pulsing between 30% and 100% every 8 seconds. This allows about 7000 GPH from the Tunzes alone through that tank at all times, back and forth. This doesn’t count the near 1000 GPH I get from the return pump.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/CTEAandCoral.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/CoralsFishWideshot.jpg
For lighting, I run three 400 watt single ended bulbs. Currently I use the Reeflux 12000K bulbs powered by a Coralvue e-ballast. I have heard absolutely wonderful things about this pairing, and I have not been disappointed. I also run two 32 watt T5 actinics, but in all honesty, the only time you’ll notice them, is before and after the Reefluxes are on. If I shut them off when the MH bulbs are burning, you can’t even notice. That is how much blue is in the 12000K’s. I am contemplating trying the Reeflux 10000Ks at my next change, but I haven’t made up my mind yet.
For cooling, I rely 100% on evaporative cooling. I run one fan over the sump (once the temp hits 81 degrees), and five 4 inch fans, plus three 2 inch fans in the canopy from 6:30 AM to 11 PM. Probably the smartest thing I’ve done for temperature control, though, has been to duct my central air in my home to “fire” into my cabinet. So, during the summer, the ambient air temp in the cabinet is almost never above 75 degrees. Believe it or not, the tank actually gets hottest in early spring and late fall (when the air doesn’t run much, and the ambient air tempo can be moderately warm).
MAINTENANCE
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/MCinrbta.jpg
I typically do a 30 gallon water change every 1-2 weeks. My work schedule is quite hectic, so I can’t always plan days off in advance. I aim for every week, but it’s not uncommon to hit every 10 to 14 days, though. During water changes, I engage in the archaic practice of actually vacuuming my substrate. I use to have fine sand, but, it was just blowing around everywhere. It will be a cold day in Hades before I ever run bare bottom (LOL Lee and Alan!) So, to remedy this, I actually use crushed coral for a substrate. It is only about 2-4mm in size, but has enough mass to not get blown all over. To ensure it is not a detritus trap, though, I vacuum the open areas every water change, though. I do not dose any additives at this time. I used to dose magnesium, but after a mishap with a faulty test kit, and a Mg level of over 1800, and subsequent issues, I won’t do that again.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/corals7.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/corals4-1.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/corals21.jpg
My water parameters are as follows:
Salinity- 1.026
Temp- 80-81.5 degrees
Calcium 415-440 (elos)
Alkalinity- 11 dkh (salifert)
Nitrate-0 elos)
Phosphate- 0.04 (Hanna colorimeter)
Magnesium 1450 ish (elos)
Why these numbers amaze me (in particular the nitrate and phosphate) is because I feed like there is no tomorrow because of my fish population. I run two auto feeders- the first feeds a mix of spirulina and cyclopeeze flake fours times a day, and the second feeds New Life Spectrum and Hikari pellets twice a day each. Then when I get home, I feed a lion’s share of frozen food. This may include 3-5 cubes of Ocean Nutrition formula food, I silver dollar sized chunk of frozen mysis, or any of the other frozen foods I may buy from now and then. And, this doesn’t include the sheet of nori I put in every day or every other day. I guess the only explanation I have to my being able to feed so much and keep the levels reasonably low is through intense nutrient export. I run my skimmer full tilt, run carbon and phosphate media all the time, ozone, and water changes regularly. I’m sure if I neglected these responsibilities, I would have an absolutely STUNNING hair algae tank, but I pride myself on the discipline to not allow this.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/JeremyFTS-1.jpg
Thanks first and foremost to Jin and Alex for their efforts. I don’t get visitors often, so it is a pleasure the have them share my little slice with this entire club. This would only be possible through them.
Aquariums have always been a part of my life, from the time I was a child in Buffalo, NY, catching the native sunfish and catfish out of the creek in my backyard. I started with the obligate bowl, and graduated quickly through the 5, 10, 18, 20, 55 gallons.
My first marine aquarium was 37 gallons, and I tried desperately to put 37 fish in there. Needless to say, I had a lot of problems. Lessons learned. Once I got a job at the local fish store of choice, I rather honed my skills, not through only my experience, but also through the customers. I was lucky enough to get a 120 reef ready for dirt cheap, begged my landlord to allow it, and that was the first stab at actual “reefkeeping”. It had a moderate skimmer, VHO lighting, and had “immense” flow, with the mag 7 return pump! My, how we have learned.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/coralsfish1.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/Coralsfish3.jpg
In 2001, I moved to Georgia with my tank, and waited painfully to finally own a house where I could set it up. This happened in September of 2001. In late 2006, I finally decide it was time to “get bigger”, and bought an all glass 210 reef ready. This tank has been set up since then (with much of the original rock and livestock).
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/Coralsfish6.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/Coralsfish4.jpg
I have set this tank up originally as a mixed reef, with SPS, LPS, softies, mushrooms, anemones, etc. But for some odd reason, the challenge of SPS really drew me in. As a result, over the past year, I have more focused on adding SPS to this tank rather than the other “types” of corals, but still do have some of the afore mentioned in the tank. First and foremost, however, this tank is set up to support fish. I love fish. Wait, let me re-phrase- I LOVE FISH! I very carefully walk the fine line between the fish and coral population, but in case of a conflict, the fish almost always win in my mind!
EQUIPMENT
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/YTCTandCoral.jpg
This is a standard All Glass 210 gallon (72” X 24” X 29”) that has the reef ready overflows. I looked into other brands/vendors, but for the price and reputation, I went with All Glass. My sump is a My Reef Creations reef sump. It holds approximately 50 gallons, and has a built in refugium will is likely about 15 gallons. My total volume is probably around 260 gallons or so. It sits on an All Glass black pine stand. Now, here is where it gets fun. I was uneasy with putting this load on the floor of my house. I live in more or less a small log cabin, and, even though it was against the wall, it made me nervous. As I don’t have a basement, I went into the crawl space, poured six concrete footers, and braced the floor joists to be sure the floor wasn’t going anywhere. Sounds fun, huh? All in about 24” of space! The “ghetto” canopy I made myself at work out of scrap firewood (or so I complain). I hate it, and I need to pay someone skilled to make me a nice one.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/WFTang.jpg
My jealousy sets in for many people as I don’t have the room for a separate fish room, basement, or similar. What I wouldn’t give for a basement or “fish room”. The tank sits in my open dining area, and I have done my best to cram everything needed into the cabinet and associated space.
I bought the tank, and it sat in my spare bedroom for about 4 months. I had visions of adding onto the house and making a fish room/in wall setup, alas, was just a pipe dream, as my finances, and impatience took over.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/equip2.jpg
I have always been a strong proponent of My Reef Creations, as their equipment has always proven to me to be the pinnacle of quality. As a result, I run a MRC MR-2 (run by a Mag 18). As this has to fit under my stand, and I wanted to maximize skimming, I run both becketts. I would love to add some extensions, but my space currently doesn’t allow it. I have been seriously contemplating getting a taller skimmer, and just running it adjacent to the tank, but we’ll see what the future holds. Into the skimmer, I have a Red Sea 50 mg/hr ozonizer, running at 50%. I only rarely recharge my air dryer, so I estimate it is only pushing 10 mg/hr into the skimmer. But for those who are willing to “risk” running ozone- you will never believe the difference in water clarity. I sincerely doubt the level we run would have any disinfecting or pathogenic control properties, but the water will be utterly transparent. I have a MRC waste collection container with carbon to collect the skimmate. With my load, I pull out about a liter a day or more. I also run a MRC CR-2 calcium reactor (with spray bar) with CaribSea media. I run about 100ml/min effluent, and about 2 bubbles a second. To counteract the depressed pH from the reactor, I top off through a MRC nilsen reactor. My top off is controlled by a JBJ ATO. The ATO is, in turn controller by my Digital Aquatic RK2. I have it set to pH control, where if the pH get to be above 8.55, it shuts off the ATO, and worst case scenario, I burn out my return pump. The few times I’ve seen this has been just micro bubbles, though. My return pump is another Mag 18. It goes through the stock loc-line returns, but most is controlled by ball valves to go through the WavySeas unit in the tank. I also have two 250 watt Stealth heaters in the sump.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/equip1.jpg
I also run carbon 24/7, and Brightwell Aquatics Phosphate resin for phosphate control, through TLF Phosban reactors.
Another company I am a rabid supporter of is Tunze. I have heard wonderful things about the Vortecs, but reputation and production of Tunze will keep me a customer. I currently run two Tunze Stream 6200s controller by a 7095 controller. I set the controller to Interval 2, 10 minute interval, and pulsing between 30% and 100% every 8 seconds. This allows about 7000 GPH from the Tunzes alone through that tank at all times, back and forth. This doesn’t count the near 1000 GPH I get from the return pump.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/CTEAandCoral.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/CoralsFishWideshot.jpg
For lighting, I run three 400 watt single ended bulbs. Currently I use the Reeflux 12000K bulbs powered by a Coralvue e-ballast. I have heard absolutely wonderful things about this pairing, and I have not been disappointed. I also run two 32 watt T5 actinics, but in all honesty, the only time you’ll notice them, is before and after the Reefluxes are on. If I shut them off when the MH bulbs are burning, you can’t even notice. That is how much blue is in the 12000K’s. I am contemplating trying the Reeflux 10000Ks at my next change, but I haven’t made up my mind yet.
For cooling, I rely 100% on evaporative cooling. I run one fan over the sump (once the temp hits 81 degrees), and five 4 inch fans, plus three 2 inch fans in the canopy from 6:30 AM to 11 PM. Probably the smartest thing I’ve done for temperature control, though, has been to duct my central air in my home to “fire” into my cabinet. So, during the summer, the ambient air temp in the cabinet is almost never above 75 degrees. Believe it or not, the tank actually gets hottest in early spring and late fall (when the air doesn’t run much, and the ambient air tempo can be moderately warm).
MAINTENANCE
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/MCinrbta.jpg
I typically do a 30 gallon water change every 1-2 weeks. My work schedule is quite hectic, so I can’t always plan days off in advance. I aim for every week, but it’s not uncommon to hit every 10 to 14 days, though. During water changes, I engage in the archaic practice of actually vacuuming my substrate. I use to have fine sand, but, it was just blowing around everywhere. It will be a cold day in Hades before I ever run bare bottom (LOL Lee and Alan!) So, to remedy this, I actually use crushed coral for a substrate. It is only about 2-4mm in size, but has enough mass to not get blown all over. To ensure it is not a detritus trap, though, I vacuum the open areas every water change, though. I do not dose any additives at this time. I used to dose magnesium, but after a mishap with a faulty test kit, and a Mg level of over 1800, and subsequent issues, I won’t do that again.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/corals7.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/corals4-1.jpg http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc204/FutureInterest/corals21.jpg
My water parameters are as follows:
Salinity- 1.026
Temp- 80-81.5 degrees
Calcium 415-440 (elos)
Alkalinity- 11 dkh (salifert)
Nitrate-0 elos)
Phosphate- 0.04 (Hanna colorimeter)
Magnesium 1450 ish (elos)
Why these numbers amaze me (in particular the nitrate and phosphate) is because I feed like there is no tomorrow because of my fish population. I run two auto feeders- the first feeds a mix of spirulina and cyclopeeze flake fours times a day, and the second feeds New Life Spectrum and Hikari pellets twice a day each. Then when I get home, I feed a lion’s share of frozen food. This may include 3-5 cubes of Ocean Nutrition formula food, I silver dollar sized chunk of frozen mysis, or any of the other frozen foods I may buy from now and then. And, this doesn’t include the sheet of nori I put in every day or every other day. I guess the only explanation I have to my being able to feed so much and keep the levels reasonably low is through intense nutrient export. I run my skimmer full tilt, run carbon and phosphate media all the time, ozone, and water changes regularly. I’m sure if I neglected these responsibilities, I would have an absolutely STUNNING hair algae tank, but I pride myself on the discipline to not allow this.